Fagus sylvatica progression

[parhamr]

I’ve been working on this tree since June 2014. I think I’m working on an informal upright globe/flame sort of style. I’m inspired by Andrew Robson’s amazing beech. I have many years to go before this is show ready

As I bought it from Portland Nursery for about $12 in a 4" pot


2015 in a deep 3-gallon nursery can with diatomaceous earth gravel:


2017 right before I put it in a grow box


2018 during a move


June 2019 looking bushy. You might be able to see some of my work to keep most of the upper and outer leaves halved to


October 2019 with symbiotic fungi. This tree has had fall fruits at least 3 times.


Today after some root work to reduce organic contents, remove the coarse and chunky roots, and to



The nebari is a little funky but I’m kinda liking how wild and natural it has been. I could definitely improve it with some ground layering. That may yet come.

 

[Hartinez]

I should have done a BIN on a recent European beech that was on one of the auction sites. Only ended up bidding a low price. This’ll be a great tree long term Reid.

 

[parhamr]

This tree is doing well. I pruned its long growths back to the second bud on most branches in late May and early June.


I also decreased the foliage area by cutting nearly all of the leaves in half. This has been critical on this tree to keep interior growths healthy. The tree has been happy enough about it as to put on a new flush of growths.

 

[parhamr]

It’s looking pretty good in the nude. There’s a lot of development to do, still. I might also switch the front and back, since this side has some scars.

On that straight part of the trunk in the canopy I have removed all branches to let it compartmentalize. I’ll remove that stub once it’s ready.

I need to be sure to let the lower branches run and to keep the vigor of the upper branches in check.

 

[parhamr]

The first flush had hardened off this week and the tree was starting to put on a second flush of growth. Time for seasonal work!

Before: (I’m trying to be more mindful of getting photos of trees before I work on them!)


After cutting back all upper branches to the first 1–3 nodes, depending on position, strength, and orientation:


Same phase, opposite side:



Work completed — all but the lowest branches were partially defoliated:



I’ve given this tree a few applications of liquid fertilizers and one with granular organic. It usually puts on a second and sometimes even a third flush of growth each year.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Good/great progress. Personal E. Beech also has wierd surface rootage worse than yours.

 

[parhamr]

The foliage looks pretty good right now



It continues to produce mushrooms from the symbiotic fungi

 

[Shogun610]

That’s what I’m talking about , (fist bump) love the beech and hornbeam, I’m a beech /hornbeam fanboy idk what it is.. normally I love conifers but past months I’ve been acquiring beech and hornbeams for development/ training.

 

[barrosinc]

This one is doing great!

 

[parhamr]

I think I’m better understanding the seasonal cadence of this species.

today, before work:


After:


I trimmed off at least one bud from every canopy branch tip but left at least three or four buds for next spring. The plan is the outer buds will elongate the most. After the first flush of growth hardens, I’ll remove the coarse tips and do partial defoliation.

These shots show off how strong it is becoming: these pruning responses are significant!

 

[parhamr]

On June 18 the first growths had fully hardened off and some of the interior shoots were at risk of being shaded out


So as part of its regular maintenance I did a leaf-pruning defoliation, minor pruning, and some shoot thinning


The timing on that was great — it produced a minor secondary flush, set healthy buds, and took a long dormancy period from the summer heat. Today, before I pruned back some of the sacrificial limbs and removed around 20–30 terminal buds:





I think the size of this Anderson Flat is way too small and restricting its potential development. I’m definitely trying to keep some refined growths going, but it needs a touch more leg room for the roots to support vigorous canopy progression. It’s on my list for a 2023 repot.

 

[parhamr]

Last fall:


Today:

 

[ForrestW]

Wow, great work!

 

[parhamr]

May 25 seasonal work: pruning to silhouette/structure, pruning back to 2-3 nodes, and partial defoliation by leaf pruning.

 

[Bonsai Tree]

Beautiful tree. I've been wanting to start a beech bonsai for several years now. Do wounds/scars heal on the plant? I'm afraid if I get a larger tree and trunk chop it that the wound may never seal.

 

[parhamr]

Beautiful tree. I've been wanting to start a beech bonsai for several years now. Do wounds/scars heal on the plant? I'm afraid if I get a larger tree and trunk chop it that the wound may never seal.

They heal, but on the slower end and the scar remains visible. Wounds won’t close up as cleanly as maple or stewartia do.

 

[Bonsai Tree]

They heal, but on the slower end and the scar remains visible. Wounds won’t close up as cleanly as maple or stewartia do.

This makes me want to start from seed or from a seedling and do a clip and grow method. Of course it would take much longer versus growing out a thick trunk and chopping near the base, but I'm assuming it's necessary to avoid those unsightly scars.

 

[parhamr]

@River's Edge had so kindly asked me about the nebari. That’s the next major scope of work. I’ve been waiting and hoping to see if it would “melt” into place as the tree continues to grow but I’m finally ready to admit it’s just forever going to have a little bit of an octopus tentacle look.

I had put this tree into a show pot to show it off and that’s been done. Now it’s time to push it along further down the road.

I’ve been working on this tree with Andrew Robson and he’s told me I should ground layer it to just get a whole new reset on the nebari. He’s right.

It’ll go into a grow box this winter

 

[River's Edge]

@River's Edge had so kindly asked me about the nebari. That’s the next major scope of work. I’ve been waiting and hoping to see if it would “melt” into place as the tree continues to grow but I’m finally ready to admit it’s just forever going to have a little bit of an octopus tentacle look.

I had put this tree into a show pot to show it off and that’s been done. Now it’s time to push it along further down the road.

I’ve been working on this tree with Andrew Robson and he’s told me I should ground layer it to just get a whole new reset on the nebari. He’s right.

It’ll go into a grow box this winter

Just curious did Andrew mention the technique of applying a wire the growing year before to induce swelling at the ground layer site for an enhanced outcome. It is one of those " old school" tricks that can improve the outcome. The tree stores more resources at the site and builds up the foundation for root production. Then at the appropriate time in the spring it has a head start in formation of roots when the bark ring is cut , hormones applied and the ground layer started.

 

[Wood]

I did a workshop with Andrew on European beech, and he recommended to basically everyone to ground layer their trees. His experience was that it’s almost always a two year process. First year, apply a tourniquet wire and bury the layer under soil. Over winter, check on it and cut back any callus formation. Next year should have enough roots to separate the tree. He specifically said that cutting a ring in beech trees didn’t seem to speed up or slow down the ground layering significantly