RoR Acer P. on Nephrite

[Saddler]

When I moved into my townhouse almost two years ago, a maple had been growing from seed in an overgrown pot in the backyard with roots that went almost straight down. I was gutting the yard and nothing was going to be left back there so it either had to die or get repotted. I have a few pieces of jade (nephrite) I have been wanting to use for RoR so I hastily wrapped the roots over it and tied it down with butchers twine (I was working to get the yard cleared by the end of the weekend so I didn't have time to spare) and dumped into the original pot I wanted to get rid of. Lol, it ended up being the only thing to accommodate the shape of the jade.

My intention at the time wasn't to get the roots to adhere to the jade, but to form a decent shape around it so I wouldn't have to fight it so hard alone. I have given up trying RoR before because I just couldn't do it without another set of hands. It seems to have paid off as I got the roots to be fairly tight even before I wrapped it in moss and plastic wrap and pressed hard with dirt.

I planted it in the ground, right where it was growing in a pot with it on a 16" walkway stone. In a year I plan on cutting it back to the tiny low branch and starting from there for the top side. I will leave it another year after that before I dig it up.

If anyone has suggestions or criticisms, please let them fly. I love hearing ways to improve my trees, even if it is kill it and start over haha. I'm done with caring for crappy trees.

 

[sorce]

I like it except for the high placed right root.

Your first node is pretty far from the base...
But I like that it is just above the top of the rock, that should be a nice first taper transition.

Nice work!

Sorce

 

[Saddler]

Thanks! That high root will probably have slipped down as I was fighting to keep it from going straight down and laying on the big root below it. I cracked it pretty hard fighting it so it might die anyways. If it does survive this and is still to high, I don't mind killing it.

Do you think an even lower leader would benefit the design? There are definitely at least two nodes below my chosen chop height.

 

[sorce]

Do you think an even lower leader would benefit the design? There are definitely at least two nodes below my chosen chop height.

Almost always.

I would be tempted to chop it to the 2 branches now to get them buds popped.

Sorce

 

[Saddler]

Oh I'm tempted to chop it. Wouldn't it be more beneficial for the roots adhering to the jade if I leave most of the branches on it? I had to root prune it somewhat so I was thinking if I got the roots strong this year, it would have more energy stored to push more buds when I do chop it next year and I would have more options. I could very well be missing something in my logic though. Right now, I am mostly concerned about getting the roots adhered and having the base of the tree swell to fill the gaps between it and the rock. If changing the plan means something like slowing the roots by 20% but gaining 200% on the top, I am very willing to change the plan. I will likely need to pull it out of the ground permanently in two years, maybe at the end of the third summer (wife has plans for the front yard) if I am lucky.

 

[sorce]

Well Damn.
Did you do this alone?

Cuz Thats a Damn fine job getting Those roots in place if so!

I wonder though....if you plan to cut the wire off or if you have already......

Anyway.....of top cutting.

In the ground for 2 years.....I think you'll be fine....And you don't have much gap!

Might have to go read the nonsense in the "when to do hard cut back on maple" thread....

But...

If you get that lower bud popped this year, and grown out to close to the size of your bigger current first branch....

You may be able to use the second year to heal the final chop to it.

Of course this may bump to year 3...

You know the tree better than I...
But Your 20% loss and 200% gain seems close to correct.....

Even if off a bit....
I think it'll pay dividends to get a jump on that new leader healing while in the ground.

That would be enough for me to chop it.

Too... You should get at least some grip onto the rock after 2 years, enough to not have to reposition it again at least.

And...a little slower growth down there might be helpful to only get grip, and not have anything blow out of proportion...

Sorce

 

[Saddler]

My plan for the wire is leave it for a pair of months and then pull it off. I don't want to accidentally drag the roots with it when I slide it out.

Yea, I did this myself. It was an experiment that seems to have worked out that I am trying on a few other trees. Give it a year or two with the roots draped over, just to get the roots to take the general shape of the rock and then there is a lot less fighting when I go to get them to adhere. I have a few more I am trying with this method. Time will tell if it is worth the extra couple years.

I am leaving to Yukon in about fifteen minutes so I think I will trunk chop when I return. My question is should I take it down to the single small branch taking the large off with a 45 degree cut or leave the pair of branches?

I was flawed in my reasoning in that I forgot about the callous healing over. That is a bit more important then the roots adhering. I can always wait longer for the roots, but an ugly healed cut will always be just that.

thanks @scorce for the advice!

 

[Saddler]

thanks @sorce for the advice

 

[sorce]

accidentally drag the roots with it when I slide it out.

Well you got great pictures to reference as to not screw it up!

I would just dig down the big slope of the rock, and cut the plastic, and the wire..

And you can probly just leave it like that.
So it has a bit of room to push the wire away.

Very well done for 2 hands!

I like your method!

Sorce

 

[Saddler]

After seeing this on the Ebihara thread, I thought I would I would get two birds stoned at once. Try to get the lower nodes to push buds and see if I can quicken the healing if I don't. I am wondering if I should have notched the tree on the other side instead?