Two 95 degree days in a row.....

[miker]

If you are using granular fert.........the more you water the more you are fertilizing. So if you increased your watering that could be the reason if there are too many granules in the pot.....

But from this wilting could also be due to the excessive heat or dryness

I bet you is it from both the increased watering itself combined with the increased release of the osmocote fertilizer at higher temperatures.

The plants were getting regular watering from rain before the past week with the pellets having been applied about a month ago and temperatures until recently were mostly 55F - 75F.

The past 5 days, in contrast, have been 82F-96F for highs.

A couple shoots on my trident even have the wilting and it spent last summer in Florida and I only ever saw the new shoot tips wilt the few times I let it get too dry. Definitely not from the heat, provided adequate moisture is available to the roots.

 

[StoneCloud]

I hate that about Bonsai don't you........

That you always have the whole problem figured out right after the fact, rarely as it is happening.

My wife hates me I'm always going "babe I was just thinking, what if it's this....."

 

[CamdenJim]

It's a dry heat!

So's a pizza oven!

 

[rockm]

93F yesterday, 96F today and bone dry under full sun. Miserable for most plants and people. Bonsai and sticks in pots all look okay. Watering everyday.

I think the osmocote I have applied is suddenly releasing at an excessive rate, as several of my potted trees are showing wilted new growing tips and associated leaves. It is definitely not from lack of water. Perhaps it is the way the foliage mass is reaching equilibium with the limited root mass to support it?

Might not be the osmocote. Might be the sun and constant breeze. New growth on some trees tends to outgrow the ability of roots to support it, especially in really hot weather, which slows trees down anyway. Shade the pots and the wilt might slow...

BTW, you have to watch that you don't overwater in really hot weather. Like I said, roots tend to shut down operations if the pot gets too hot in the hottest part of the day.

 

[Anthony]

85 deg. F and nights at 70 or so. Breezy.
With rain the temp will drop to lower 80's.

Perhaps the maples are burning from air temperature.

@just.wing.it
There is supposed to be a silicate compound folk in Florida use to negate the heat effects.
You may wish to check it out.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Eric Group]

Heat, sun... sure they can be hard on Maple leaves... Looks like WIND played a role in this crispy story to me. Generally wind can dry a tree out faster than anything!

 

[augustine]

I live in Central MD. My tridents handle full sun (with adequate water). JM's and Hornbeams need some afternoon shade in my experience.

when it's real hot the pots will stay cooler if placed on the ground.

 

[rockm]

I've had middling results with tridents in full sun here. New growth can tend to wilt and turn crispy if the tree is left in full sun, especially if there is a wind to go with the sun. have become cautious about more than six hours of direct sun for tridents. Japanese Maples are never in direct sun, keep those in open shade.

 

[Johnathan]

I've been looking for a full sun maple... This tread has crushed my hopes.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Yesterday, only one maple went partially crispy...
Today, both maples and both Hornbeams are showing it....
Is it the heat?
Is it the sun plus the heat?
Is it the humidity plus all the above?
Jeez man......
Makes me sad.

Sun plus heat. Get some shade cloth. All my deciduous with the exception of a couple of Chinese elms are now under shade cloth - gonna hit the 90's here shortly.

You can buy one of those shade sails from CostCo for like $39.95.

And for what it's worth - you just defoliated your maple whether you were planning to or not. It is going to push new growth in about three weeks. Get it under shade and you'll be fine. If you don't protect it, and the second push of growth gets burnt (which is even more likely given that it will be soft new growth) the tree will likely die.

 

[StoneCloud]

I've been looking for a full sun maple... This tread has crushed my hopes.

Naaa!!! Maples IMO are one of the best trees used in bonsai, they are so great!!!

Just like learning how to care for the other species you have this is the same. Each species just takes different types of care/conditions. When you think of all this as a whole it can be overwhelming, but just like you've learned what you have so far. Learning how to care for maples isn't much different.

We're always learning!

 

[just.wing.it]

Thanks everyone, for the replies!
I put the those trees under the deck umbrella today...
Gonna work on some type of shade cloth... I'll have to build something to hang it on and mount it to the banister in the side of the deck....

 

[StoneCloud]

Thanks everyone, for the replies!
I put the those trees under the deck umbrella today...
Gonna work on some type of shade cloth... I'll have to build something to hang it on and mount it to the banister in the side of the deck....

https://bonsainut.com/threads/shade-structure-build-6x12.27523/#post-453404

 

[rockm]

Naaa!!! Maples IMO are one of the best trees used in bonsai, they are so great!!!

Just like learning how to care for the other species you have this is the same. Each species just takes different types of care/conditions. When you think of all this as a whole it can be overwhelming, but just like you've learned what you have so far. Learning how to care for maples isn't much different.

We're always learning!

The thing with Japanese maples isn't necessarily full sun. It's root temperatures that remain high even at night. Regular nighttime temps that remain above 70 can stifle root growth on just about any colder zone deciduous tree in hot climates, which is another reason maples and larchs don't do that well the further south in the U.S. you go...

here are some sun tolerant species, but even they may still have difficulty in more extreme southerly locations in the summer.
http://japanesemaplelovers.com/growing-japanese-maples-in-hot-climates/

 

[Anthony]

@just.wing.it

Source -

http://japanesemaplelovers.com/growing-japanese-maples-in-hot-climates/


Green varieties seem to be less susceptible to leaf scorch. however there are many varieties can withstand hot temperatures. Here’s a list of few:

Amoenum-(leaves divided up to 2/3 down the base)

• Osakazuki– Has large leaves that are green spring and summer. They are well known for the intense crimson they turn during the fall. They can grow to 20 feet, but will stay smaller in warmer climates.
  
  
• Omato– Is very similar to Osakauki, but the color is somewhat less intense. Its a strong grower and resistant to sun damage.
  

Palmates– (Leaves divided 2/3 – ¾ down the base)

• Bloodgood, Red Emperor, Emperor 1– These very popular varieties are what what most people think of when you say “Japanese maple”. They have that typical red leaf and can reach 20 feet tall.
  
  
• Fireglow-This smaller version of a bloodgood, only grows to 12 feet. Its gives off an amazing glow when the sun catches its burgundy leaves. Its size makes it a good container plant.
  
  
• Glowing Embers– This will grow to about 10 ft with young red leaves fading into a bronzy gold as the seasons change.
  
  
• Sango Kaku– The sango kaku is best known for its coral red bark that turns gray with the season. Green leaves turn to a yellow-gold. Its a fast grower and can reach heights up to 25 feet tall.
  
  
• Moonfire– Moonfires look more like a tree than a shrub. Covered in dark, black-red leaves, it will grow 15-18 feet.

Matsumurae-(Leaves divided more than ¾ down the base)

• Oregon Sunset- This compact tree grows well in containers. In ground it will grow to 12 ft. Its red leaves deepen in summer, then turn an intense crimson in the fall.
  
  
• Beni Shi En-The name means“red smoke”. It is one of the few variegated varieties that grow in hotter climates. Its purple-red leaves are trimmed with gold highlights. This too, has a compact from that makes it a good container plant.
  

Dissecums– (Lace Leaf)

• Crimson Queen– This weeping deep red lace leaf grows in a thick, leafy mound to about 5 feet.
• Tamukeyama– A strong, fast growing variety, its thick leaves change from bright red to dark purple. It will grow to about 5 feet.

• Inaba Shidare– This plant will quickly grow to 5 feet. It boasts very dark,(red-black) foliage.

• Red Dragon– This small (4 ft) mounding plant has cascading scarlet-red leaves yearlong.
• Seiryu– The name means “blue-green dragon” It is the only true upright growing dissectum among Japanese maples. Green leaves turn to vivid gold with red highlights. This variety is very different from the cascading forms of other lace leafs. It can grow 12- 18 feet tall.
  
  
• Garnet– This unique tree is like a 6 foot upright, but has weeping red leaves flowing from the top.
  

Linearilobum– (Narrow, strap-like leaf lobes)

• Red Pigmy– This wispy shrub has narrow, twisting lobes- red in the spring and turns green as the temperature rises.
• Koto No Ito– At up to 7 feet tall, it has green foliage that turns orange, peach and red during fall months.
  

Dwarfs-

• Shaina– This globe shaped bush has beautiful two-toned red, dense foliage. It will grow to 5 feet.
  
  
• Sishigashira- Its name means“lions head”. It has glossy dense, curled leaves that are deep green leaves into fall. In late fall, after most other varieties have begun to fade, it bursts into gold, rose and crimson tones. Sishigashira holds color well in heat.
  

Miscellaneous Varieties–

• Shantung Maple– The Shantung is not a true Japanese maple, but the delicate leaves make it look very similar. Because this tough tree tolerates full sun, Texas A&M University designated it as a Texas Superstar Tree. This 25 foot tall tree has green and gold leafs with red flecks. The leaves turn to a stunning orange in fall. A grower in Texas used it to create the dwarf golden dragon (trademarked)- a smaller, hardy variety.

 

[Anthony]

@just.wing.it ,

please note --------- air temperature -----------------------not sure if under a screen will change air temperature.

Remember we take the temperature with a thermometer ----------- in the shade.
---------------------

Excessive heat
As with many other types of plants and trees, excessive or prolonged periods of heat can cause leaf scorch on many varieties of Japanese Maple. But there's not much you can do about an unusually hot summer and, as previously mentioned, not much you can do about leaf scorch. Your tree will drop it's leaves in fall and fresh new leaves will emerge the following spring. Then say a prayer that next summer won't be quite so hot!

source -

http://www.gardenality.com/Articles...s/Leaf-Scorch-On-Japanese-Maples/default.html

 

[M. Frary]

I've found that tamaracks don't like warm roots either.
I put bright colored t shirts on the soil surface to help keep them cool and moist when it gets warm and sunny.

 

[Anthony]

Please note for what it is worth, we lost the trident maple down here because the soil stayed too wet.

The tree grew well under the shade of a tree [ 16 years or so ].
Our air temperature is 80's deg.F high and low,and for half an hour to 10 minutes.
We just can't satisfy the 6 to 8 weeks winter dormancy [ hence the fridge ]

Trident maple was replaced by the Gmelina, similar leaves.
Hope all of this helps.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[A. Gorilla]

I've been looking for a full sun maple... This tread has crushed my hopes.

My new tridents have been taking my recent high 90s full sun (10:00am to 4:00pm)like a boss. Seedlings, saplings, and one a few years old.

I had a Japanese maple fry like an egg in similar conditions. I was discouraged after that, but the species are not created equal.

Try a trident.