My Instant Bonsai

I retract my statement about the tree not being grafted. Upon closer inspection it looks to be.
 
Yeah I've been dwelling on how to rectify the lower trunk, and I do have a few ideas like hollowing n such but what do you guys think?
 
This is my grafted spruce; same apparent graft union..
 

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here's a better pic..
 

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Just a curious question- if I was to start a shari on a spruce through little sections remove at a time then further down the road connected as one-would this be done in fall?
 
Just a curious question- if I was to start a shari on a spruce through little sections remove at a time then further down the road connected as one-would this be done in fall?
Generally, any deadwood work involving stripping live tissue should be done during the growing season so the tree can heal/wall off the de-barked area. Doing so in the fall might increase the risk of infection occurring during the winter months.
 
I've never done it on a spruce so I was unsure-is it to late to do start now?
 
I've never done it on a spruce so I was unsure-is it to late to do start now?
I've never done it on a spruce, either. Having said that, I'd say now is a great time. Keep in mind the fact that creating shari is a stress to the tree and only you know how much work has been done to the tree in the last 6-12 mo. Proceed with caution with trees that have been recently and aggressively styled and/or re-potted.
 
I've never done it on a spruce, either. Having said that, I'd say now is a great time. Keep in mind the fact that creating shari is a stress to the tree and only you know how much work has been done to the tree in the last 6-12 mo. Proceed with caution with trees that have been recently and aggressively styled and/or re-potted.

If I did do anything it would be but a sliver to just start something. Again It was a just a curious question as I don't think I'll do anything right now.
 
I would start it now; plenty of seasonal growth left this season in my area. I would cover the exposed cambium with cut paste, not the wound sealant. If your wound isn't big enough, the tree may heal over the wound, obviously.
 
Yo giga,
They are beautiful trees. Had a large one growing in front of my house as a kid growing up. Great memories of stringing christmas lights on it. . Picea pungens is a beautiful conifer. I'm growing a few cultivars . Dwarf weepers in the landscape. Thought I had a pic. Post it later
 
Wow those needles are gorgeous!

Yeah it draws your eye when you look at all the trees in my garden. I got it in the fall when the color fades a bit to more green, so this is the first I've seen new foliage and was blown away by just how blue it was.

Yo giga,
They are beautiful trees. Had a large one growing in front of my house as a kid growing up. Great memories of stringing christmas lights on it. . Picea pungens is a beautiful conifer. I'm growing a few cultivars . Dwarf weepers in the landscape. Thought I had a pic. Post it later

May pick up a few more if I find them this fall!
 
Looks lovely! Got any tips&tricks regarding picea healthcare?

Spruce are very tough but not indestructible. This guy was very healthy when I got him and Was able to style in fall when I bought it-about 50% cut off, then I bare rooted(not washed!) it in spring because it was planted in solid clay. Then I fertilized heavily with organics through the season till fall. I trimmed only a few new shoot at the apex because it was growing to strong compared to the bottom. If I was to do that again this year I would severely weaken it or kill it. Guess goes with any bonsai take it slow n steady and pay attention to what the tree is telling you before you start any work.
 
Thanks Giga!
Did you put some of the old soil back?
I heard conifers don't like barerooting, so how the heck did you get this one to survive? :eek:
 
Did you put some of the old soil back?
I heard conifers don't like barerooting, so how the heck did you get this one to survive? :eek:

Are you suggesting that the bad part of bare rooting is that the roots miss their original dirt instead of the process of bare rooting damaging them (i.e., it rips the fine hair roots off that do most of the mineral adsorption)? :confused:
 
A couple of observations/suggestions if you please. Don't be in any hurry to put in anything but a growing container until tree is developed enough to display or show. Also conifers normally use unglazed pots and while red would be pretty not normally appropriate for conifer.
As for the trunk inverse taper two things I will or have used myself. #1 split the lower trunk so as not to damage the main or important roots and put small wooden wedge in that is approximate width of trunk so as to fill empty space and it will heal around it faster. Do this perpendicular to narrowest width of trunk. Can use cut paste to cover if desired. #2 TIGHTLY wrap lower trunk(clear down to soil root level)with wire(about 3mm)over the lower thinner trunk area and use smaller wire(about 1.5 mm)above that to lowest branch level and allow to grow into(become part of)tree. This will expand wood it as it swells growing around wire and in time will also make trunk more interesting. If doing this do not wind wire too evenly so it will not look phony. Could also use both techniques together and make lower taper/trunk even bigger.;)
 
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