Got some new Trees! (lots of pics and questions)

[Bonsai Nut]

As far as dormancy goes, look to see where the subject tree occurs in nature. As a second guess, look to see where they are used in landscaping and have survived for years.

I live in Southern California. We never get a winter night that drops below freezing, though we will get a few nights in the low 40's high 30's. Most winter nights are in the 50's. That's it. So I can't keep cold hardy trees like white pines (for example) but I have kept black pines, red pines for decades. Same with junipers of many different types - shimpaku (sargeant), procumbens, needle (rigida), shore, etc. So you don't need much cold at all. Putting your trees on the back porch will be fine.

 

[cooldaddyfunk286]

awesome advice, thanks guys!

...My Bonsai salesman at the local Bonsai nursery told me for my Junis (that have been kept outdoors and doing fantastic),to take the 3 coldest months of the winter...Im thinking for upstate NY its probably Dec, Jan, Feb....maybe Jan, Feb, March...and he said just put them somewhere like an unheated garage or shed for their dormancy. They only need A LITTLE light during these coldest months? Now these 2 Junis Iv had outside since day one Im not worried about at all...

Heres my main concern with the newer, indoor Pine, Spruce and mini Nana Juni...They have now spent some time indoors in summer time conditions, and they have put on alittle growth, but havnt been planted yet. I was planning on repotting the Mugo today and let it grow. but maybe not? Im just afraid of, "OK, now I got them indoors thinking its summer and growing nicely, now Im going to put them outside in the freezing cold?!" lol.

so maybe I should either let them grow this winter in the tent, but simulate a dormancy, wont be hard. B, let them grow straight thru in the tent JUST FOR THE REST OF THIS COLD SEASON like its the summer inside the tent, and THEN properly get these outdoor trees outdoors next year...OR I suppose I could start now and acclimate them outdoors, and by the time Jan. hits, they will be used to being outside, and I can put them in the shed with the other Junis? which sounds best? I could probably even bury them, little tiny pot and all, right into this bed outside for the winter...no transplant shock. Whatever I do, I know I need to do it niice and eeaasy.

What exactly will happen to the Junis and pine n spruce when they go dormant? what are the signs? what are you looking for/needing to achieve.

the ONE good thing the mini Mugo Pine and White Spruce have going for them, is that I only bought them maaybe 2 weeks ago?...so those 2 have actually only been grown inside for 2 weeks. When I bought them in Jersey, they were outside.

So, whats my best move guys? would it be better if I posted this stuff in the Pine section? or should we keep it all here in my thread in the beginner section because thats just what I am! What do ya think Bonsai Nut?

thanks alot for all the info BN and Sorce...

Sorce, I was actually checking all those boxstore juni threads last night, and once I found out its real name, Juniperus Sabina, I was able to actually FIND pics online...searching Blue Tam Juniper Bonsai won't give ya S**T for results! The only thing is, I need to wear gloves, something about that strain of Juni gets my hands and arms all rashy and itchy. Why is this??! Didnt just happen to me either, anyone thats touched it/worked on it w me...and I checked for plant lice, thats not the problem. hmmm...

Thanks you guys! big help, great info.

 

[coh]

Chris...Thank you SO MUCH for the reassurance. The Junis I have a procumbens. I also have a Blue Tam juni that I did alittle work on, cleaned up for next year...and I have a Dwarf Mugo Pine and Hedgehog White Spruce.

The reason his trees were so Tiny is because he was limited with only using regular fluorescent tubes and keeping them so close to the tops, which isnt a bad idea, its just very limiting and will never give you taller or very lush growth, but they will grow and will sustain. LED lights keep everything VERY tight. all the internodal spacing will be a huge cluster. I may switch mine over to LED in the very far future to develop some real tight intricute pads. For now, the MH in in my oppinion the best posible light for these trees. especially since none are actively flowering and the 7200k spectrum is very "blue" and keeps the plants tighter structure than a standard 6000-6500K MH.

Chris, thank you again for helping me keep faith in my setup.

True, I think, regarding the fluorescents. Jack made the conscious decision to grow small trees so the set up works perfectly. It's more difficult to adequately light larger trees using only fluorescents, but I think it can be done - obviously many more tubes are required, with some suspended so as to provide side lighting to the lower parts of the trees.

I've been trying to grow a small selection of tropicals (a few ficuses, brush cherry, jaboticaba, water jasmine, buttonwood until it gave up) up here...obviously under lights from about October through April (give or take). I use a combination of lighting...a 400 W metal halide, a 125 W compact fluorescent (both suspended above the growing area), and a standard 4' fluorescent shop light (2 bulbs, suspended horizontally to provide side lighting). We cannot count on much sun from November until March due to lake effect and I don't have any windows large enough to be of much use, so pretty much all the light must be provided.

Unfortunately I've had so-so growth. One year I built a plastic-enclosure (framed by PVC) to keep up the humidity around the plants, but it didn't seem to produce any benefit. I've thought about trying a grow tent like what you are using, maybe someday. I think I may not have been fertilizing enough and will be increasing that this winter. We'll see what happens.

Chris

 

[cooldaddyfunk286]

Chris, I have noticed that they take GREAT to these real designer lines of nutrients made for indoor or organic growing. much more effective and elaborate than your shultz or peters 10-10-10. those are pure mineral salts. The nutrients I have been using on my trees are FULL of L-amino acids. roughly 30 different building blocks of life. along w very diverse root zone microbes, plant, mineral, marine extracts, kelp, molasses. I really think that people could see much better/faster results using a better quality nutrient. of course 10-10-10 will always do the trick, but its EVERYTHING ELSE that basically puts the other 50% on it and the icing on the cake. Granted you know what your doing! I can also see it being a nightmare for some people, so I like the simplicity of a 10-10-10, or any generic 1 part mineral salt based fert.

I made a worm casting tea thats so bio-active its foaming all over the floor! gonna see how the Trees like it! I'll report back.

thanks again. (PS I'd love to see those mini fluorescent trees!)