In ground root training?

[Will.power49]

Over View - My family owns a large plot of land in central Ohio. Beech, hornbeam, oak , redbud. ERC, several pine . There are several stands of beech trees. I want to start the process of collecting several trees.

With the larger trees say 2in plus thick truck. I have given several the chop a few inches from the ground with good results of new shoots starting and back budding.

But what can be done about the training of the roots??? Can I remove soil replace with bonsai medium while leaving roots in place as much as possible? Clip tap root?

I am asking this because it seems better to grow them in place until they are ready rather then pulling them now to put in grow boxes or to replant them into a field someplace else. Open to any and all Ideas

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

You can dig them up, cut roots back and replant them. Do some research on the best way to reduce them so they look good in a pot later.

 

[Will.power49]

You can dig them up, cut roots back and replant them. Do some research on the best way to reduce them so they look good in a pot later.

My goal is to avoid fully removing them from the native soil.

 

[BuckeyeOne]

If the soil is typical of central Ohio it should be OK.
If not you can amend with coarse pumice, lava, DE, etc. Look for references to Telperion Farms techniques for ground growing.
Removing all the native soil is only when moving to a container or grow box. You need better control of water and nutrients once out of the ground.
The goal of lifting every couple of years is to train the roots to create a more uniform root spread. You can not achieve this without removing them, trimming the roots and returning to the ground.

By the way, where are you in Ohio? I may be interested in buying a few trees if you're willing to part with them.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

My goal is to avoid fully removing them from the native soil.

Why? if you’re trying to work the roots for bonsai use later, you really need to get a good look at them. With D-trees, you take very little risk by digging them up, working the roots, and replanting them right where they were. Then later, you won’t have to make the big cuts and watch them slowly heal in a pot over the rest of your lifetime.

 

[JonW]

I don't have a large plot, so I don't do much in ground growing, but I've planted a few plants in bonsai soil in ground. Putting them in a colander or pond basket can help. If the plant has a flat rootbase and you plant it on something like a tile you only have to manage horizontal / radial roots that get too thick - you can chop those each Spring. I know some people who plant in ground also aerate around the trees yearly, so they are very easy to dig up when ready.

 

[Will.power49]

If the soil is typical of central Ohio it should be OK.
If not you can amend with coarse pumice, lava, DE, etc. Look for references to Telperion Farms techniques for ground growing.
Removing all the native soil is only when moving to a container or grow box. You need better control of water and nutrients once out of the ground.
The goal of lifting every couple of years is to train the roots to create a more uniform root spread. You can not achieve this without removing them, trimming the roots and returning to the ground.

By the way, where are you in Ohio? I may be interested in buying a few trees if you're willing to part with them.

I live in Columbus. You are welcome to come dig some your self how does that sound. Dm me

 

[Will.power49]

Why? if you’re trying to work the roots for bonsai use later, you really need to get a good look at them. With D-trees, you take very little risk by digging them up, working the roots, and replanting them right where they were. Then later, you won’t have to make the big cuts and watch them slowly heal in a pot over the rest of your lifetime.

That is a good point. Planned on pulling them in a few years to deal with roots. I Wanted to get good back growth after the chop was the hope of leaving them intact for a year or two. Thank you for the information