moss question

[Vance Wood]

I've had luck cultivating moss after repotting if I apply a thin layer of shredded white sphagnum moss after repotting and then pressing it firmly into place to ensure good contact.

Some observations, the year I started doing this, I had much better root growth and roots that happily colonized even the top layer of soil despite being in the full sun. Another benefit was that I had far fewer weeds to contend with.

On a recent trip to Japan, almost every tree I saw had a healthy surface layer of living colonized moss.... So the"for show" thing may be true to a small extent as it would be dressed up a bit.. I asked about this and was told it was cultivated there and desirable for better root growth, fewer weeds and for preservation of the soil. Akadama breaks down due to wear and tear from water, wind and sun. Adding moss will protect and immobilize akadama and help it stay intact longer.

Thank You very much for sharing that bit of information.

 

[fore]

I've had luck cultivating moss after repotting if I apply a thin layer of shredded white sphagnum moss after repotting and then pressing it firmly into place to ensure good contact.

Some observations, the year I started doing this, I had much better root growth and roots that happily colonized even the top layer of soil despite being in the full sun. Another benefit was that I had far fewer weeds to contend with.

On a recent trip to Japan, almost every tree I saw had a healthy surface layer of living colonized moss.... So the"for show" thing may be true to a small extent as it would be dressed up a bit.. I asked about this and was told it was cultivated there and desirable for better root growth, fewer weeds and for preservation of the soil. Akadama breaks down due to wear and tear from water, wind and sun. Adding moss will protect and immobilize akadama and help it stay intact longer.

This is what I learned to just add some credence?, and to which GoOk is exactly correct: the moss allows the stabilization of the surface soil, and allows the top 30% of the root mass for fine root development. And I also am using 50/50 dried sphagnum and dried moss to each repotted tree in a bonsai pot so far.

 

[FrankP999]

I'm looking for some diffrent types of moss in my woods, years ago I was told not to use the moss that grows around tree trunks, but rather the stuff that grows across the lawn or path, is there any truth to this? It seems the short haired moss always grow around trunks.thanks

This has some good information http://www.mossacres.com/

Frank

 

[quietobserver]

This has some good information http://www.mossacres.com/

Frank

I've used hypnum moss, or the variety sold in 'moss milkshake' with good success. Use it primarily on hinokis that like it moist and shade all of their own pots for a good portion of the day. Ordered it through stonelantern though as its cheaper and I buy from them off and on anyway.

 

[cmeg1]

http://crataegus.com/?s=The+moss+myth&submit=Search I always like this link.I am going to use it on some trees this year

 

[A Random User]

Damn... it's funny how no matter how many times
I post something, or what I post, no one pays any
Attention or gives it any credence until someone
Else says the exact same thing...
Ain't that a bitch ???

 

[M. Frary]

Don't know if anyone else has this problem but moss on my trees turns black from fertilizer. It's nice and green when I apply it but after I fertilize it starts to die. Within a few days.

 

[Vance Wood]

Damn... it's funny how no matter how many times
I post something, or what I post, no one pays any
Attention or gives it any credence until someone
Else says the exact same thing...
Ain't that a bitch ???

Been there done that had it happen, in fact there is an entire site that has ripped off a lot of the stuff I have written.

 

[A Random User]

Been there done that had it happen, in fact there is an entire site that has ripped off a lot of the stuff I have written.

Sorry to hear it !!!
In actuality I really don't care, I am just glad that
The correct info is getting out...

Kinda funny though...

 

[Vance Wood]

Sorry to hear it !!!
In actuality I really don't care, I am just glad that
The correct info is getting out...

Kinda funny though...

Sometimes it bothers me that people can be so shallow but I guess if I did care all that much I wouldn't post much at all.

As to moss. I'm glad this discussion has come up and turned away from the direction it went a year or two ago when those who used moss were killing their trees.

 

[A Random User]

Don't know if anyone else has this problem but moss on my trees turns black from fertilizer. It's nice and green when I apply it but after I fertilize it starts to die. Within a few days.

The fertilizer is burning the moss.
What kind of fertlizer are you using ?
I put down slow release pellets before applying moss,
And use liquid ferts there after.
You could always try poo balls if you don't mind animals
Rummaging through your tree.

 

[Vance Wood]

The fertilizer is burning the moss.
What kind of fertlizer are you using ?
I put down slow release pellets before applying moss,
And use liquid ferts there after.
You could always try poo balls if you don't mind animals
Rummaging through your tree.

I have never had that problem I suspect there is more to the story than fertilizer.

 

[A Random User]

My personal view is this...
The more I do Bonsai, the more I am learning one extremely
Important fundamental point, which is often discussed, but I
Don't think is really stressed enough...
That being that Bonsai really is all about three things...
Growing, Reducing, Replacing.
In order to create an awesome bonsai these three factors
Will play an important role. In order to maintain a bonsai,
Here again they will do the same.

In branches, we are always trying to make them more and more
Compact. Growing them at first to establish size, cutting back, reducing
And starting new branches for structure / ramification and replacing
Heavy branches to establish taper.

In roots, we are always trying to make them more compact as well,
cutting and reducing heavy roots, growing finer feeder roots. And
Replacing them for roots closer and closer to the soil line of the trunk.
To not only get them in smaller pots, but to also allow them to be even
Closer to the surface to obtain more oxygen. We are not concerned with
Deep structural roots to help stabilize and hold up the tree, this is why
We tie down our trees.

So if moss on the soil or spagnum moss added too, or applied to the surface
Allows us to better obtain our goals, then it seems a little counter productive
Not to do it...
Just my nickel, two dimes, and a half dollar.

 

[M. Frary]

I have never had that problem I suspect there is more to the story than fertilizer.

Don't have any idea except over fertilization of the moss. I fertilize with liquid fertilizer once per week. Mix it up at 5 times normal strength. The trees do fine but the moss goes belly up in about 2 weeks. It starts turning color within a couple days. I've tried a few different types of moss too thinking maybe I got a hold of some weak stuff. I like it on the trees for all of the reasons listed in the other posts plus moss makes watering easier by holding the soil in and not letting it wash out when I'm hosing 'em down.

 

[Vance Wood]

Don't have any idea except over fertilization of the moss. I fertilize with liquid fertilizer once per week. Mix it up at 5 times normal strength. The trees do fine but the moss goes belly up in about 2 weeks. It starts turning color within a couple days. I've tried a few different types of moss too thinking maybe I got a hold of some weak stuff. I like it on the trees for all of the reasons listed in the other posts plus moss makes watering easier by holding the soil in and not letting it wash out when I'm hosing 'em down.

I think the strength of your fertilizer is a bit high and considering the level of nitrogen may be a bit more than the moss can handle. I have been accused of using too much when I do it once week and full strength and you do it at five times the strength? Wow, I would try cutting it in half for a while and see hoe things go.

 

[M. Frary]

Was actually thinking about cutting it back to 1/2 strenvth of what's reccomended on the box but applying it every 3 days or so. I'm not concerned about the moss too much and the trees do fine but in the back of my head I know I'm just wasting fertilizer by dumping it through my trees. On a side note the grass around my best benches grows real nice.

 

[discusmike]

A lot of good info on moss for newbies aswell as intermediate hobbyist, thanks everyone.

 

[bonsaibp]

I think that whether or not moss is a good idea may have something to do with where you live. When I lived in NJ some of my trees would get moss on them on their own and it never caused a problem, my attitude was if it grows cool if not oh well.
Here in the part of Los Angeles I'm in the average humidity is a little more then 20%- in other words really dry. I have seen countless trees dead or dying from root rot with lush green moss covering the pot. In an effort to keep the moss green in this hot dry area people are drowning there trees. So as a result I advice people and myself to not apply moss except if one is going to show a plant. If you don't water that much the moss turns dry brown and ugly. Once in awhile a little will grow here and there and if thats the case I leave it, otherwise I don't moss my trees except before a show.
I do sometimes apply shredded sphagnum moss on some trees with roots close to the surface to protect them and keep soil in place but not to encourage the growth of green moss covering my pot.
So if you live in an area where it'll grow well without overwatering your trees great if not you may want to think about it.

 

[Poink88]

I think that whether or not moss is a good idea may have something to do with where you live. When I lived in NJ some of my trees would get moss on them on their own and it never caused a problem, my attitude was if it grows cool if not oh well.
Here in the part of Los Angeles I'm in the average humidity is a little more then 20%- in other words really dry. I have seen countless trees dead or dying from root rot with lush green moss covering the pot. In an effort to keep the moss green in this hot dry area people are drowning there trees. So as a result I advice people and myself to not apply moss except if one is going to show a plant. If you don't water that much the moss turns dry brown and ugly. Once in awhile a little will grow here and there and if thats the case I leave it, otherwise I don't moss my trees except before a show.
I do sometimes apply shredded sphagnum moss on some trees with roots close to the surface to protect them and keep soil in place but not to encourage the growth of green moss covering my pot.
So if you live in an area where it'll grow well without overwatering your trees great if not you may want to think about it.

Bob,

I think this is where layering the substrate (fine on top, medium center and course bottom) helps a lot in avoiding root rot due to over watering and still maintain a good growing environment for the moss.

To much work for me though so I do not do it.

 

[discusmike]

This sounds like almost everything else in bonsai, your climate, soil, and watering routine, experience, dictate if someone should or should not moss, beginers like Bob said, should probalbly avoid the practice until they understand there trees demands better.