The bonsai heresy thread

"Pinus aristata is a slow grower" heard it a few times. These are my spring candles, the second flush happens in June and is usually 2/3 the length. That's a growth rate of over 2 feet a season, at least while youngView attachment 195043
I don't think this is Aristata. I don't know what it is but it is not Aristata/ aka Bristel Cone Pine.
 
Nigel’s videos are a cringe fest for me.

He would rather stack rocks around the nebari and haul that to his greenhouse. Very limiting in situations where the center of mass of the tree is not directly over the nebari. I can’t ever imagine a situation where his approach would be better than wiring in a tree. It’s not precise or long term. Maybe you don’t have wind in all cases but when you go to wire the tree, where will all that stress from handling it end up? The root system will undergo a lot of stress. This is probably why Nigel doesn’t seem fond of wiring lol
Maybe he meant not always.
 
Removing layers acan only be done once you have a baggy full of roots?
When air layering, I tend to remove the layer as soon as I have white points, maybe even at 1/4 inch long new roots. Pot it up, shade it for a few days to a week and/or put the pot in a shallow dish with water. So far, no casualties. I have however had layers die on my even though the first roots were formed when woodloose find their way into the layer site.

I personally think the successfull separation is all about the aftercare.
 
When I fertilize I do it with watering, no wetting soil before fertilizing. My point is wet soil can take and hold much less water with nutrients.
... ehm, I still keep my biggest chinese elm indoors, it's been for 8 or 9 years. And it's in a process of air-layering now, I can see first roots...
IMG_20180603_083141.jpg
 
When I fertilize I do it with watering, no wetting soil before fertilizing. My point is wet soil can take and hold much less water with nutrients.
... ehm, I still keep my biggest chinese elm indoors, it's been for 8 or 9 years. And it's in a process of air-layering now, I can see first roots...
View attachment 195140

but but but they can't live indoors!
 
Let wire grow in to conifer to make trunk bigger/more interesting:eek:. Use HB101 plant vitalizero_O. Foliar feed:cool:. Use root stimulant after repottingo_O. Never, never, ever use kakadama:eek:! Fertilize Ponderosa Pine all Spring/Summer to grow shorter needles;). Use tall cascade pots:p. Let cones grow on Pineso_O.
 
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I don't think this is Aristata. I don't know what it is but it is not Aristata/ aka Bristel Cone Pine.
I'm glad to hear you say that vance, I can't stand the thought of a misidentified tree in my garden. I grew this one from seed I got from scheffields.com. based on growth rate, my weather, and the fact that I have bare rooted it out of season twice, I was starting to doubt it really was bristlecone
 
@milehigh_7 I will return to eat my words if/when I ever identify this one. I'd hate to think that website is charging those prices for mislabeled seed
 
I was starting to doubt it really was bristlecone

I've grown Pear trees for a couple of seasons to find out they were Cherry Trees... Mislabeling is part of the Circus :P

Grimmy
 
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I had an embarrassing dream about pronouncing it wrong. Because I know I do.

When one can cut a HUGE girth bougies and root it. I tend to agree. Curious if it is more about root rot,than root reduction when one states they are sensitive.
Often when roots are disturbed on one they'll drop a lot of leaves so nurseries tell people dont muss with the roots or even plant it with the pot intact. They may drop a bunch of leaves but they \'ll come back no problem if its warm enough when you repot- for me thats 60 degrees and above consistently at night.
 
Let me start with the caveats:

- I know grafting is an advanced tier skill and anyone who can do it successfully has my admiration.
- Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

But.......

If I'm ever lucky enough to own one of those massive junipers from out west, I'll never ever, ever, ever graft kishu or itoigawa onto it - putting Asian foliage on an ancient, rugged American plant for horticultural reasons may be one thing if the existing foliage is weak in your particular climate (and to that I would then question why did you get a piece of material that is ill suited to your climate and requires grafting to survive in the first place). But on the other hand, saying "it's more manageable/responds better than the natural foliage" or "I like the look of it better" or "its own foliage won't win shows compared to a shimpaku" or "the Japanese do it all the time with their junipers" or "it's no big deal, it's accepted practice at this point" are all excuses, in my book, to not appreciate and learn the qualities the plant has to offer as an American piece of material. To me, it's like putting a new Chinese made silk hat and vest on an old dusty, rugged cowboy. Just kinda looks off somehow.

Heresy! I know, right?:eek:
I agree 100% here- all my CA junipers always have their own foliage.
 
@milehigh_7 I will return to eat my words if/when I ever identify this one. I'd hate to think that website is charging those prices for mislabeled seed
I'm glad to hear you say that vance, I can't stand the thought of a misidentified tree in my garden. I grew this one from seed I got from scheffields.com. based on growth rate, my weather, and the fact that I have bare rooted it out of season twice, I was starting to doubt it really was bristlecone
scheffields is usually very reputable, you should take the pictures and call them. I am sure they will take care of you.
 
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