The fastest way to develop deciduous bonsai: Walter Pall's hedge pruning method explained

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,037
Reaction score
27,323
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
How is this hedge pruning? He's selectively pruning each branch.
Comon. The info is out there. Walter has gone great lengths trying to explain the difference between "just constantly at random trimming back" and what he does - in winter clean out the canopy for the ideal shoots, and in summer just profile trim the trees.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,913
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Walter has stated over and over that his method is for quick development the fine stuff Ryan and Bjorn describe is for maintaining near finished trees. I believe that the use of both is the wave of the future.
 
Messages
415
Reaction score
1,631
Location
Portland, OR
USDA Zone
8b
Walter has stated over and over that his method is for quick development the fine stuff Ryan and Bjorn describe is for maintaining near finished trees. I believe that the use of both is the wave of the future.
This is a good point, and I've been attempting this on some of my maples. One thing that I don't think that many people are considering is that Walter Pall is creating naturalistic trees where serendipity counts for a lot. When twigs are all crammed in together they will go in unexpected directions, then back to the light. It's really hard to replicate this randomness by carefully selecting each bud shoot or twig one at a time while the tree is growing. It's possible though, I've seen Dennis Votilla do it, but he's been doing bonsai longer than I've been alive.

I think people would do well to consider the end goal when deciding which methods to employ. I haven't seen Walter's trees in person, but they do appear to have fine twigs, short internodes, and everything that you look for in quality deciduous bonsai.
 

Djtommy

Omono
Messages
1,551
Reaction score
5,368
Location
Tokyo
I haven't seen Walter's trees in person, but they do appear to have fine twigs, short internodes, and everything that you look for in quality deciduous bonsai.
Guessing is not enough.

oh I’m bad, sorry in advance, i thought this was funny
love to all and especially to the trees!
 

Lazylightningny

Masterpiece
Messages
2,257
Reaction score
2,107
Location
Downstate New York, Zone 6b
USDA Zone
6b
It would help a lot to inform yourself what really is done an what effect it has. Guessing is not enough.
I'm not disparaging your method, but I am obviously not understanding it either. The term "hedge pruning" seems to indicate that you take shears and prune your tree as you would a hedge. That is, indiscriminate shearing of the outline of the silhouette. What I'm seeing in the video is selective pruning of one branch at a time. So what am I missing?
 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,885
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
The video does not show what I do. It is not my video.
And this is problem. I’m sure Raffy had good intentions when he made the video. When I watched it, I could tell that he didn’t really understand the technique. The video should be titled something like, “My attempt to use the Walter Pall hedging technique”.
 

Adair M

Pinus Envy
Messages
14,402
Reaction score
34,885
Location
NEGeorgia
USDA Zone
7a
I think I've got a good candidate to try this out....but I'll spare ya'll the video!! 😁 😄 😄 😄 😄 🥴 😘

View attachment 295310
Well... I wouldn’t. Here’s why: it appears that the trunks are all about the same caliper. It would be better if some were thicker, and some thinner. Obviously, we can’t make them thinner, so that means that to make them different, you need to selectively let some grow more than others.

I would choose to let an apex sacrifice grow on one or two of the tallest trees to let them thicken up.

I’m doing exactly that to a couple of my forests.

Maybe careful hedging, and making sure not to cut the sacrifice! I don’t know...

I’m personally in the “non-hedging” school, more like Bjorn’s technique. But, if I were trying the hedging school, I think it would work better on a different bonsai.
 
Messages
168
Reaction score
194
Location
Montreal, Canada.
USDA Zone
6a
And this is problem. I’m sure Raffy had good intentions when he made the video. When I watched it, I could tell that he didn’t really understand the technique. The video should be titled something like, “My attempt to use the Walter Pall hedging technique”.
It doesn't matter how you cut it. It matters when you cut it and most importantly what you do in the fall. If you want to cut with a chainsaw, a hedge pruner or with a feather it is all the same. If you want cut carefully or carelessly, it is all the same. What is important is that you prune to the silhouette or perhaps a little less each time the tree has had enough time to return to an energy positive state and that is approximately twice in a growing season and then select branches in the fall. Whoever don't understand that don't understand the technique. I think I fully understand the technique. What I don't understand is why people keep coming back to make the same points they made before or others made. Is there anything new to say here or are we going to keep going in circles for ever?
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,912
Reaction score
45,593
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
If you want cut carefully or carelessly, it is all the same

Carelessly could get you a piece of bark that lifts up and tears back to the trunk.

It could have you pull your tree right off the stand and break a pot.

You can cut your damn self!

Never be careless.

Sorce
 
Messages
168
Reaction score
194
Location
Montreal, Canada.
USDA Zone
6a
Carelessly could get you a piece of bark that lifts up and tears back to the trunk.

It could have you pull your tree right off the stand and break a pot.

You can cut your damn self!

Never be careless.

Sorce
sure but you understand what I meant, we're talking only with regards to new growth.
 
Top Bottom