Trident Maple ideas?

nover18

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Cut the roots as described....with the tree in the ground. Cutting only the 1/6 sliver of roots per side.


BTW, that is just one of many possible approach...do which ever you feel is best for you.

What does 1/6 sliver of roots mean? I don't understand?
 

nathanbs

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Here is a shot from where I would envision the new front to be (perhaps rotated clockwise a few degrees would be ideal). Are there going to be huge-ass scars that need to heal, yup... but that's what you have to deal with when you cut a 25ft tree down to 2ft.

no offense md but unless the OP wants a super tall finished tree your proposed cuts are way too high. The cut in the first virt actually creates horrific reverse taper if you look at it from that perspective.
As another said in this thread there are many ways to further propagate this tree as a bonsai. Many of those many ways are not correct and will lead to a poorly developed trunkline. To build a tree you need to understand what a finished tree looks like and reverse engineer it. It takes practice and trial and error to realize what each actions results will be. Personally I have over 300 trees in the ground that I am learning from
 

Poink88

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thanks guys... i am taking this all in and sitting back thinking. Wow, i'm glad that i have winter to decide what i want to do in the spring. I think the advice that i'm getting is, and correct me if my conservative approach is misguided, is to wait until spring and expose some of the base of the tree to evaluate the nebari. Since i did some minor root work when planting, i'm a bit nervous as to what i'm going to discover. I think it has developed some nice basal flare in the time it's been planted in the ground and I presume that is from the minor root work done prior to planting. Does anyone have an explanation for returning to the ground instead of putting in a better draining, more suitable growing box of some sort? I'm assuming because it will aid in the recovery/healing process? Wouldn't a grow box give me a bit more control of the development of a shallow and nice radial nebari?

You can dig it and pot in a bonsai pot but...why did you plant this in the ground to begin with? The answer will help you answer why you should keep it on the ground until your main branches and new apex is developed. Undisturbed root system will help you attain that the fastest IMHO...partly chopping the roots over time hopefully will not slow it down too much. On the other hand, you can dig it up and develop a nice compact root but it will slow your top development. You choose your poison.
 

Poink88

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What does 1/6 sliver of roots mean? I don't understand?

Imagine a doughnut...the hole representing the trunk and about 2" around it. if you slice the doughnut in six pieces...each piece represents the soil around it....say one foot wide. Each piece is a sliver that if you remove will also remove all the roots in it. remove the 2 opposite sides and you give the tree a chance to grow new roots close the trunk on those areas. You can also replace the soil at this time if need be. Repeat the next year removing the next 2 opposite sides. An the last pair...just dig out the tree. Make sure you dig it to the outside of the doughnut. ;)
 

md4958

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no offense md but unless the OP wants a super tall finished tree your proposed cuts are way too high. The cut in the first virt actually creates horrific reverse taper if you look at it from that perspective.

None taken. The OP never specified what size he would like the finished tree to be. my suggested cut I estimated would be about 8-12 inches above the soil line, resulting in a tree around two feet tall. I guess OP might be after a sumo, but I personally dont find that look particularly attractive, so its not usually my go-to styling.

Yes, I see what you are saying, however:

1. That first virtual would be the SIDE view. I used that to show where he could air-layer and get himself a couple more trees out of this operation.

2. Again, based on the side view- The planting angle would need to be adjusted from left to right, and obviously that cut is a rough idea of where the finished cut would be. I left a bit of space for die-back, and then carving it down to correct the taper.
 

nover18

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Imagine a doughnut...the hole representing the trunk and about 2" around it. if you slice the doughnut in six pieces...each piece represents the soil around it....say one foot wide. Each piece is a sliver that if you remove will also remove all the roots in it. remove the 2 opposite sides and you give the tree a chance to grow new roots close the trunk on those areas. You can also replace the soil at this time if need be. Repeat the next year removing the next 2 opposite sides. An the last pair...just dig out the tree. Make sure you dig it to the outside of the doughnut. ;)

thanks...makes sense now.
 

johng

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Hey Nover...hard to give good advice with just words so I made you a short video...

[video=youtube_share;aqfBAyNpWxQ]http://youtu.be/aqfBAyNpWxQ[/video]

John
 

drew33998

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John, You are the greatest. I mean who cares enough about bonsai to reply to a thread with a video? Haha. My family is actually from Gaston, SC. I have an aunt that lives there still.
 

Poink88

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Hey Nover...hard to give good advice with just words so I made you a short video...

[video=youtube_share;aqfBAyNpWxQ]http://youtu.be/aqfBAyNpWxQ[/video]

John

I agree with john esp where to chop. I would add that when chopping...chop a bit outside that line then slowly nib the rest off. Sandwiched at that crotch area (between the 2 branches) may be some bark in between that you do not want damaged. If you are lucky, only half or a third of the chop area need to heal over. Good luck! :)
 

nover18

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Hey Nover...hard to give good advice with just words so I made you a short video...

[video=youtube_share;aqfBAyNpWxQ]http://youtu.be/aqfBAyNpWxQ[/video]

John

Thank you so much! That really clears it up. Great idea of making the video. I was actually thinking of trying to save the branch on the right and use that as the new trunk line since there is a bit more taper but now that you advise that this may not heal, i think i'll take your advice. I'll plan that for the spring and hopefully have an update. This should be a fun one. Thanks again!
 

nover18

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update on Trident

Well, I took the advice and root and top pruned. This was quite the project. My back is not thanking me right now. The nebari isn't as beautiful as i had hoped but at least the tap root had previously been removed in fall of 2010. I will carve a little more out of the large branch removed so that the healing can begin. This was returned to ground and hope for lots of new branches to emerge from the top.
 

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nover18

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and more photos

more photos. Any suggestions on possible front? Possibly photo 1 or 5?
 

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