Viable tree to purchase for a beginner?

Japonicus

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Saw this Wilsons Pink online and thought I'd ask here before I bought it.
I had one before that did not survive me, nor did the Kamagata, both dwarfs.
Notice I didn't say they didn't survive the heat, or the Sun...I don't know why honestly.

1. the graft looks ok but not low
2. It's about 3' tall and curious if where I drew the lines would be
a good place to cut to or not, and if...
3. Is this Spring too late for such a hard cut??
 
I wouldn’t bother. It’s a stick with a bad graft. Trunk is way too thin for chopping to the height you indicate (though your reasoning is correct). I’d only make cuts like that now if I was also cutting the roots.
 
1. I'm not a huge fan of grafts, I usually will air layer the tree off them. This is risky though, as you may lose the whole thing.
2. The trunk needs to develop more, cutting it will impede that. I'd leave both, help thicken the trunk and then cut one away once it's thickened up.
3. Best time to cut are just before buds start swelling in the spring or in the fall just after the leaves fall off. These are the two times where a burst of vascular growth will occur which will heal the scars.
 
My train of thought, you want to fatten it up. Get it into your good soil and spread the roots radially, as you do. When its the size that pleases you, unless you plan to keep the graft, air layer the top and you`ll be left with two trunks to begin building on.
Wilsons Pink ebay (2).jpg

and a fat short standard,
Wilsons Pink ebay (3).jpg

... Unless you want a mame maple.. :)
 
If you want to work with Japanese maples, I'd suggest starting out with the straight up species Acer palmatum and avoid the inherent lesser vigor, grafts, and general quirkiness of grafted cultivars. A. palmatum is strong, graft free, and very responsive to good horticulture... and they look goooood!
 
Ok, wow! never got so much feedback let alone so prompt. Thanks a bunch guys
!
My train of thought, you want to fatten it up. Get it into your good soil and spread the roots radially, as you do. When its the size that pleases you, unless you plan to keep the graft, air layer the top and you`ll be left with two trunks to begin building on.
View attachment 182413

and a fat short standard,
View attachment 182414

... Unless you want a mame maple.. :)
I appreciate the quick and fair shake to try and make it still work for someone who likes the cultivar Wilsons Pink.
Though, I've never layered anything, I could gain practice I suppose.

My good soil, do you mean bonsai soil in a grow pot, or in ground? My ignorance proceeds me here, chuckles.
I like your angle on this Victorim. I could have both a garden tree that will grow and give me years of ...whatever,
be it pleasure, practice, cuttings? and maybe some air layering practice.

This one is at least pictured and roughly $65. The one at Whitmans farms is 3/4" caliper,
same height, no picture, and $150 + sh. Lucile just doesn't take pictures of her stock if you're interested
but will respond, and does have some nice maples. I bought a Japonicum Otaki and Autumn Moon
both in my front yard I got from her several years ago. Pleasant lady.
 
Do you do Facebook at all? Scott Lee has decent stock...if you toss out a price point he might be able to offer you something. He's always taken care of me. But...also you can post in the "Wanted to Buy" section...a species your interested in. We do have ones here as well who has good prebonsai material. Never know what you might find. Wishing you the best.
 
Ok, wow! never got so much feedback let alone so prompt. Thanks a bunch guys
!

I appreciate the quick and fair shake to try and make it still work for someone who likes the cultivar Wilsons Pink.
Though, I've never layered anything, I could gain practice I suppose.

My good soil, do you mean bonsai soil in a grow pot, or in ground? My ignorance proceeds me here, chuckles.
I like your angle on this Victorim. I could have both a garden tree that will grow and give me years of ...whatever,
be it pleasure, practice, cuttings? and maybe some air layering practice.

This one is at least pictured and roughly $65. The one at Whitmans farms is 3/4" caliper,
same height, no picture, and $150 + sh. Lucile just doesn't take pictures of her stock if you're interested
but will respond, and does have some nice maples. I bought a Japonicum Otaki and Autumn Moon
both in my front yard I got from her several years ago. Pleasant lady.

Was an in your hand or have to option. Get to the nurseries and pick your trunks. Or what darlene has suggested above. A little more cash will save you years, and a solid start. Play with cultivars once you get a feel for maples.
 
Ok, wow! never got so much feedback let alone so prompt. Thanks a bunch guys
!

I appreciate the quick and fair shake to try and make it still work for someone who likes the cultivar Wilsons Pink.
Though, I've never layered anything, I could gain practice I suppose.

My good soil, do you mean bonsai soil in a grow pot, or in ground? My ignorance proceeds me here, chuckles.
I like your angle on this Victorim. I could have both a garden tree that will grow and give me years of ...whatever,
be it pleasure, practice, cuttings? and maybe some air layering practice.

This one is at least pictured and roughly $65. The one at Whitmans farms is 3/4" caliper,
same height, no picture, and $150 + sh. Lucile just doesn't take pictures of her stock if you're interested
but will respond, and does have some nice maples. I bought a Japonicum Otaki and Autumn Moon
both in my front yard I got from her several years ago. Pleasant lady.
Lucille has some Sango kaku's on there own roots if you ask her. Also recently picked up a Kashima from her with a flawless graft. If you don't want to air layer stay away from the red/pink leaf cultivars. The difference in trunk size gets worse over time.
 
1. I'm not a huge fan of grafts, I usually will air layer the tree off them. This is risky though, as you may lose the whole thing.
2. The trunk needs to develop more, cutting it will impede that. I'd leave both, help thicken the trunk and then cut one away once it's thickened up.
3. Best time to cut are just before buds start swelling in the spring or in the fall just after the leaves fall off. These are the two times where a burst of vascular growth will occur which will heal the scars.
Thank you. You and Victorim have similar input. I appreciate the precise reply, and timeframe for cutting.
So you're saying air layering could be a loss both for the parent and layer, or just the layer "may lose the whole thing".

I am getting more input to pass on this, but I'm afraid if I ever want a Wilsons whether bonsai or landscape
I will never see anything of size. it's just not a popular cultivar in the bonsai realm as far as I can search on BN.
Acer%20p%20Wilsons%20Pink%20Dwarf%20.JPG

I sure would like to see a few of you take off with several of these and bring them some deserved glory;)
Maybe I should pass on this one. The one pictured here is sort of random, not clear, but a nice specimen to start with.
 
Do you do Facebook at all? Scott Lee has decent stock...if you toss out a price point he might be able to offer you something. He's always taken care of me. But...also you can post in the "Wanted to Buy" section...a species your interested in. We do have ones here as well who has good prebonsai material. Never know what you might find. Wishing you the best.
I do not, but my wife has a FB account. Scott Lee huh? Thank you for some direction there indeed :)
I don't have a single maple bonsai and have been wanting to replace my Wilsons and try my hand at it again.
I do have an a. palmatum growing wildly in ground next to the house on it's own roots and way yonder too many trunks.
Itself is not bonsai material now, but did not die on me either...hmm. Much shade, happy tree.
 
Thank you. You and Victorim have similar input. I appreciate the precise reply, and timeframe for cutting.
So you're saying air layering could be a loss both for the parent and layer, or just the layer "may lose the whole thing".

I am getting more input to pass on this, but I'm afraid if I ever want a Wilsons whether bonsai or landscape
I will never see anything of size. it's just not a popular cultivar in the bonsai realm as far as I can search on BN.
Acer%20p%20Wilsons%20Pink%20Dwarf%20.JPG

I sure would like to see a few of you take off with several of these and bring them some deserved glory;)
Maybe I should pass on this one. The one pictured here is sort of random, not clear, but a nice specimen to start with.

Yes, it's possible the whole thing will die since you wouldn't be leaving any foliage beneath the air layer gap. You're effectively sacrificing the existing roots to create new roots off the actual cultivar. Whether the tree can survive on it's own roots varies from cultivar to cultivar down to tree to tree.

If you air layer with foliage below the air layer gap then (depending on amount of foliage) usually the parent survives.

Generally, I don't find much in the way of cultivar stock in a ready for bonsai form. If you want something specific you'll probably have to develop it yourself over time.
 
Only if you wanted to use it as a mother tree for air layering and the price is that good that you wouldn’t want to pass it up.
 
If you air layer with foliage below the air layer gap then (depending on amount of foliage) usually the parent survives.
That was my idea, like Zelk said, Mother tree.
The picture does show at least one internode below the proposed cut line, and a thin wispy branch as well.
Edit: In which case I would need to go up a couple internodes if air layering to have some minor girth
and space below to grow...right?
Generally, I don't find much in the way of cultivar stock in a ready for bonsai form. If you want something specific you'll probably have to develop it yourself over time.
I think you're right. There's just not much available even in nursery stock for Mr Wilson and his Pink.
Bonsai considered, even less material used, ...or low grafted. I could eventually offer low grafted ones
but have no interest ATM. You experienced folks should dig in. It's a beautiful tree.
My guess is that it is a slow grower and takes many years to develop.
The leaves do not need to be reduced. They are perfect.
 
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