Where Can i find Japanese Maple "Arakawa" in Canada?

junmilo

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Hi, give the following two places a call.

Kim's Nature - http://www.kimsnature.ca/contact.htm
Johns Garden - https://www.facebook.com/johnsgardeninuxbridge
A little bit of a drive from Toronto, is Whistling Gardens - Check out their
offerings in the catalogue http://www.whistlinggardens.ca/catalogues.php

Kim don't carry it...i became good friend with the boss lady and the boss and their son lol..they avoid those expensive stuff...

Thank you for the info though.
 

junmilo

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Look what I found today...bought all three that this remote nursery had (I got greedy) :) gonna air layering them or grafting them..but I need to find those regular Acer seedlings first

The price was good too $70/each...they will not carry them anymore or something like that...
 

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garywood

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J, congratulations! I don't see any evidence of grafting so that's one step closer. Check the soil level down to the surface roots to confirm. Next eliminate potential problem areas where you are planning the tree. For instance, the lowest branches that are opposite of one another. There is a potential for bulging there. Have fun growing them this year!
 
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...and take cuttings if the parts that you cut off.

I found a landscape Arakawa in Aus, took a heap of cuttings and sold off a number of them at 2 years old. They root easy, and will offset some of that outlay.
 

junmilo

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The largest one and the two smaller ones were all grafted...but the graft is not that noticeable... See PIC
 

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junmilo

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The largest one and the two smaller ones were all grafted...but the graft is not that noticeable... See PIC
 
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The grafts are not visibly good, and it's wasting time to train a bonsai from them. Try to ground layer them now, it's the best time.

They should easily root in one year and then can be trained for bonsai.

Simply ring the bottom of the trunks, above the ugly graft, dust with rooting powder, add long fibered sphagnum moss then pot into larger 2 or 3 gallon pots, adding lots of loose soil above the layered section. They will easily root by next spring.

Don't prune too much, let the plants grow to encourage a new better lower trunk and surface root system.

Good luck!

Bill

PS: If you stop by in the next several weeks you are welcome to collect Rough Bark Japanese maple seedlings. They are coming up by the thousands from my large garden tree. Last spring, after students took what they wanted, my wife collected about 500 seedlings. They may not come true, but should have good foliage. Just phone me before traveling south.

Our Open House & Sale and the 41st Upstate New York Bonsai Exhibition are on May 17-18th in Rochester, New York
585 334-259
wnv@internationalbonsai.com
 

junmilo

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I never tried that type of layering before...any books on it? How similar is it to air layering?

Thank you
 

Dav4

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I never tried that type of layering before...any books on it? How similar is it to air layering?

Thank you

Ground layering is the same as air layering, but done at ground level...;). In your case, your layer will be done at and just above the graft union, which is a few inches above the top of the soil.
 

junmilo

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Ground layering is the same as air layering, but done at ground level...;). In your case, your layer will be done at and just above the graft union, which is a few inches above the top of the soil.

So if the layering doesn't take...there is a chance for the tree to die right?
 

Dav4

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Fwiw, I've ground layered two standard palmatums- each had 4" trunks at ground level- and I used a very large knob cutter to literally take bites out of the area stripped of bark to ensure that no cambium remained. Both trees survived and both layers were successful. I think you have to remove ALOT of xylem to compromise the tree.
 

Poink88

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Fwiw, I've ground layered two standard palmatums- each had 4" trunks at ground level- and I used a very large knob cutter to literally take bites out of the area stripped of bark to ensure that no cambium remained. Both trees survived and both layers were successful. I think you have to remove ALOT of xylem to compromise the tree.

Some Xylem comes in "rays" (perpendicular to the rings) and can go deep in some tree trunks...on some, they are shallow and almost just near the cambium. I always err on the side of caution and assume all are the later. :)
 

Dav4

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Some Xylem comes in "rays" (perpendicular to the rings) and can go deep in some tree trunks...on some, they are shallow and almost just near the cambium. I always err on the side of caution and assume all are the later. :)

I'm not suggesting that he use knob cutters to take bites out of the trunk, but just pointing out that, at least in my experience with A. palmatum, you've got some wiggle room. The main reason most layers fail is that the ring of bark that's removed isn't wide enough or residual cambium remains, both allowing the tree to callous over the gap. I'd follow Bill V's suggestion and would suggest lightly scraping the xylem as well.
 
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The tree will not die. Just do it now.

Looking at the photos you posted, NOW is the best time for success

Good luck.
Bill
 

junmilo

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The tree will not die. Just do it now.

Looking at the photos you posted, NOW is the best time for success

Good luck.
Bill

I'm at work...if I do it...I need to go home cook dinner, feed the baby...bath the baby...prep my wife's lunch...wash the dishes...clean the stove.....warm the milk....put the baby to sleep...then by midnight I'll have time to do it....I hope I find enough time to sleep...
 

Dav4

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I'm at work...if I do it...I need to go home cook dinner, feed the baby...bath the baby...prep my wife's lunch...wash the dishes...clean the stove.....warm the milk....put the baby to sleep...then by midnight I'll have time to do it....I hope I find enough time to sleep...

Should I plant the trees in the ground before doing it or just do it in their original pot?

Do it this weekend, and don't mess with the roots at all...just leave it in the pot.
 
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