Al Keppler's Tips for Better Bonsai

Mike Hennigan

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I've used the growstone before and feel it is a good product. If only a little smaller. I feel that the DE you are using and the growstone is far to different in size. I like my soil all sifted to the same size. It washes thru at the same rate and I know exactly what it will do for me. No guessing.

I agree, I had some growstone left from coarser mixes I made in years previous, I sifted it to a size less that 1/4 inch. Most of the bag was larger than 1/4, still have a bunch of that. Will probably use some for my succulent house plants. I love the product, I just wish they had a wider range of particle sizes to choose from.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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I've used the growstone before and feel it is a good product. If only a little smaller. I feel that the DE you are using and the growstone is far to different in size. I like my soil all sifted to the same size. It washes thru at the same rate and I know exactly what it will do for me. No guessing.

Hi @Bananaman,
Thank you for your amazing post, as this knowledge passed on, is way more valuable than any book.
here in NZ I seem to find it difficult to impossible to find quality material to work, only sticks in pots called bonsai. I have propagated plenty, and bought many nursery plants. I figure with 20 odd years TIL I retire I have a few years to learn and create Bonsai.
My questions are simple ones ?.
Am I truly wasting my time on propagating “growing on” material for bonsai?
Would you any comments to share as per my story as newbie of 2 years?
Thanks again
Charles
 

Lazylightningny

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I've used akadama, but I really do prefer the pine bark. I'm mixing it half bonsai soil, half pine bark for my ericacious species.
 

amcoffeegirl

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I've used akadama, but I really do prefer the pine bark. I'm mixing it half bonsai soil, half pine bark for my ericacious species.
I thought my old mix didn't have bark in it- it truly did. It was just in smaller pieces.
Using a little chunkier mix this time.
 

peterbone

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Great tips in general but I've always disagreed with 'Look for the smallest tree'. The smallest tree would be to chop every tree at soil level. There's some optimal height to reduce a tree down to and saying the smallest tree is oversimplifying. I see a lot of trees these days that I think have been reduced too much and I think this is mainly due to recent trends in very squat trees.
 
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Great tips in general but I've always disagreed with 'Look for the smallest tree'. The smallest tree would be to chop every tree at soil level. There's some optimal height to reduce a tree down to and saying the smallest tree is oversimplifying. I see a lot of trees these days that I think have been reduced too much and I think this is mainly due to recent trends in very squat trees.
I just assumed this meant, don't be afraid to prune to an aesthetic future shape rather than keep things too big.
 

Mike Hennigan

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I think chopping a tree at soil level would just be roots and no tree, no? ?
 

leatherback

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The smallest tree would be to chop every tree at soil level.
Maybe no..
just assumed this meant, don't be afraid to prune to an aesthetic future shape rather than keep things too big.
Probably yes..

So.., my interpretation: Make the smallest realistic tree. In the long run they are often te best. but.. I am not a fan of only having stocky trees. More elegant feminine are nice too. Alhough probably harder to pull off as a convincing mature image.

I think chopping a tree at soil level would just be roots and no tree, no? ?
Clump style it is!
 

M. Frary

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Here's a picture of what all of my trees are in Al. Its D E.(napa#8822) and lava. That's it.
I use the D.E. as the water holding component or akadama substitute.
 

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Maybe no..

Probably yes..

So.., my interpretation: Make the smallest realistic tree. In the long run they are often te best. but.. I am not a fan of only having stocky trees. More elegant feminine are nice too. Alhough probably harder to pull off as a convincing mature image.


Clump style it is!


Exactly.
 

milehigh_7

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I would love to see some photos of DE and if it is available in different sizes. I was under the assumption it was used in swimming pool filters and cat litter. If thats the size available than that is just too small for me. 1/4 inch gives me the perfect exchange of air and moisture retentiveness. Smaller than that and you are choking air and it stays wet too long causing fungus, which seems to be so prevelent on this site and seeing all the turface, kitty litter and DE its no wonder!!!

Al, PM your address to me and I will send you a box of what I sell. It's a large size between 1/8 and 3/8 with most falling coming in about 5/16ths or so. You can use Napa 8822 for the smaller stuff. Benefits are better CEC, water holding capacity and durability over akadama.
 

AZbonsai

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Good stuff Al. Might save people from having to learn it the hard way over many years as I did. I thank you also for turning me on to humic acid a number of years ago. It works!
I have not been able to find how often humic acid should be applied. Can you fill me in on your regimen? Thanks.
 

PaulH

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I have not been able to find how often humic acid should be applied. Can you fill me in on your regimen? Thanks.
I use Gro-Power plus granular fertilizer in teabags. It contains humic acid and works well. I used to use the liquid form but I like the teabags better for better control and less mess.
 

Adair M

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Bending with pliers is awesome. You get extra leverage in addition to having a good solid fulcrum. Plus, the pliers can fit in tighter spaces.

Assuming the wire is in place:
I use my tweezers to help put in little bends at precise places. What I do is slip the two forks over the branch at the point I want to bend. I don’t squeeze them together, I position one of the forks at where I want to bend, and use the other fork as leverage as I twist the tweezers. I keep the tines about 1/2 to 3/4 inch apart as I twist. I can get a very good bend right where I want it.
 

0soyoung

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Assuming the wire is in place:
I use my tweezers to help put in little bends at precise places. What I do is slip the two forks over the branch at the point I want to bend. I don’t squeeze them together, I position one of the forks at where I want to bend, and use the other fork as leverage as I twist the tweezers. I keep the tines about 1/2 to 3/4 inch apart as I twist. I can get a very good bend right where I want it.
Obviously you have been working on JWP lately :cool:.
 
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