Carpinus material

[BobbyLane]

another haul of hornbeam....this crate has been growing together a few years and the roots had escaped into the ground...
one of the workers had to hack it free with a spade.

after that i went in with my saw and tamed the root ball, separated the trees for easy transportation

all of these have good nebari and decent movement.

 

[BobbyLane]

the tall tree is a keeper and will be trained as a naturalistic hornbeam.has good movement, fluted trunk, nice nebari...
the right leader was ramrod straight, i was able to get some movement in.
in spring the main trunk will pop no problem. everything is set up for a bright future....

 

[Tieball]

Fabulous! The trees show a lot of excellent promise.....you have a good eye and a great vision....and talent. Mighty fine!...and a lot of hard work you put into getting them to this state. I can just imagine your grins as you carved and separated these trees apart. Nice reward....great potential.

 

[ConorDash]

You use copper wire? I didn’t know that.. how come? Over aluminium. I’ve heard the pros and cons, curious to hear your opinion.

 

[BobbyLane]

You use copper wire? I didn’t know that.. how come? Over aluminium. I’ve heard the pros and cons, curious to hear your opinion.

i use both. usually copper wire on conifers. ill use it on thick branches on deciduous trees on occasion because you can use a thinner gauge of wire with double the strength. plus i didnt have any 4mm aluminium wire and i doubt 4mm aluminium wire would bend this branch anyway, and two pieces of AL 4mm wire looks even more ugly.
once you get into more of the wiring side of things youll understand this more.

 

[ConorDash]

Fair enough. I wanted to get some copper for the same reason. I should be wiring a good bit in prep for next season. I didn’t think it was ugly by the way. To be honest I like the copper colour more than the black aluminium.. but both look good when the wiring is done well.

I find well done wiring, very satisfying to look at.

 

[BobbyLane]

Fair enough. I wanted to get some copper for the same reason. I should be wiring a good bit in prep for next season. I didn’t think it was ugly by the way. To be honest I like the copper colour more than the black aluminium.. but both look good when the wiring is done well.

I find well done wiring, very satisfying to look at.

ill be doing quite a bit of wiring once the leaves are off everything, its one of the things i look forward to over winter. not the wiring as such but more getting it on if needed and improving the winter image/structure.

 

[BobbyLane]

this one again after a little wire, however i wish i never pruned off all the low branches...

 

[BobbyLane]

little bit of stying on a cute Korean hornbeam

 

[BobbyLane]

This one is a little bigger, both need to fill out, going to be lovely examples of the species, Korean hornbeam, stunning colours

 

[just.wing.it]

little bit of stying on a cute Korean hornbeam
View attachment 270787View attachment 270786

Snakey

 

[BobbyLane]

couple more...
@ConorDash wants the one in larger tub, will be a great project for him without costing much
i may keep the wavy one for myself, you dont often get nursery trees with good movement like this, obviously still very raw..
both trees have great options for twin or multi trunk.
View attachment 246414View attachment 246423

some styling work on the first of these multitrunks.i removed a very straight trunk.then the main trunk was very heavy so reduced the wood in the apex with root cutters,

 

[BobbyLane]

im not buying, its way out of my range of what i would spend. but lets take a moment to appreciate this monster Carpinus orientalis on kaizen bonsai

 

[BobbyLane]

if any of you follow Andrija zokic, you can see some stunning examples on his FB page...of what can be done
these are like real trees

 

[BobbyLane]

impressive Hornbeam material, if anyone interested in just having a look. even when im not buying i just like to look at good material, this has amazing potential

 

[PieterVE]

Just wondering... as your material is coming from hedges... do you hedge prune for ramification ?

 

[BobbyLane]

another haul of hornbeam....this crate has been growing together a few years and the roots had escaped into the ground...
one of the workers had to hack it free with a spade.

after that i went in with my saw and tamed the root ball, separated the trees for easy transportation

all of these have good nebari and decent movement.

how are these doing, they were growing in large crates and the roots had found their way into the ground beneath and uprooted in nov...
im only keeping the big one, it was repotted then and has since been transferred into a bigger training pot....
but i really just wanted to show that the tree is in for the most part, nursery soil!
good old nursery soil with a bit of fresh bonsai soil in the base, around the edges and on top.

it drains as freely as any other of my mixes
see

the base is 9in across.
buy look at that thick pad of nursery soil
how is the tree going to live in that 'muck' that 'root bound muck'
well its not root bound or pot bound at all.
as we can see from the video, the pot actually drains pretty quickly and freely


and the tree is doing fine, its budding out all over the trunk and we can see from previous shots, that were no branches growing at all on the bulk of the main trunk.

is nursery soil bad? NO! in fact, slamming a nursery tree into a pot without barerooting or tearing out the root pad is the quickest way to establish and develop a tree in training....

this one in fact has a thick root pad of nursery soil too believe it or not

there is only a thin level of bonsai soil on top, at the base and around the edges. seems to be doing just great. already has good nebari, so imo there was never any need to tear everything out and spread radially like what we are usually told.
same with the other above.

newbies, dont be so quick to do big repot jobs/bareroot and rip everything out in a mad frenzy to get it in 'bonsai mix'. you will just slow down the trees establishment and development. this is mainly in regards to trees in nursery soil from nurserys. what you will usually find is that most large nurserys use a drip system.
you need to get the tree and give it a good soak a few times for it to begin draining freely and quickly. i stick a layer of pumice or cat litter in the bottom of these pots and after a few watering the soil drains as freely as any other. but obviously holds more moisture, so be mindful of that. with that said, all my deciduous trees love the moisture content.

 

[BobbyLane]

this is one of the others from the haul, much smaller.
there is an option to chop the shari trunk off and create a nice tapering trunk.
either way, there is a decent base and plenty of root pad to develop the tree fairly quickly. its budding out everywhere

 

[defra]

Nice Bobby !
ive not always repotted everything to get them out of the nursery can at once and those tree's did stay alive and some are still in the nursery can after three years no problems as you say as well

 

[ConorDash]

how are these doing, they were growing in large crates and the roots had found their way into the ground beneath and uprooted in nov...
im only keeping the big one, it was repotted then and has since been transferred into a bigger training pot....
but i really just wanted to show that the tree is in for the most part, nursery soil!
good old nursery soil with a bit of fresh bonsai soil in the base, around the edges and on top.

it drains as freely as any other of my mixes
see

the base is 9in across.
buy look at that thick pad of nursery soil
how is the tree going to live in that 'muck' that 'root bound muck'
well its not root bound or pot bound at all.
as we can see from the video, the pot actually drains pretty quickly and freely
View attachment 302385View attachment 302386

and the tree is doing fine, its budding out all over the trunk and we can see from previous shots, that were no branches growing at all on the bulk of the main trunk.

is nursery soil bad? NO! in fact, slamming a nursery tree into a pot without barerooting or tearing out the root pad is the quickest way to establish and develop a tree in training....

this one in fact has a thick root pad of nursery soil too believe it or not

there is only a thin level of bonsai soil on top, at the base and around the edges. seems to be doing just great. already has good nebari, so imo there was never any need to tear everything out and spread radially like what we are usually told.
same with the other above.

newbies, dont be so quick to do big repot jobs/bareroot and rip everything out in a mad frenzy to get it in 'bonsai mix'. you will just slow down the trees establishment and development. this is mainly in regards to trees in nursery soil from nurserys. what you will usually find is that most large nurserys use a drip system.
you need to get the tree and give it a good soak a few times for it to begin draining freely and quickly. i stick a layer of pumice or cat litter in the bottom of these pots and after a few watering the soil drains as freely as any other. but obviously holds more moisture, so be mindful of that. with that said, all my deciduous trees love the moisture content.

Good post, thanks. But seriously, that hole in the top of the rose head on the can... that’d bug the ever living Crap out of me! You don’t wanna stick some tape over it or something? Lol.