Developmental Indecesion re: My Wintergreen Boxwood. Need Suggestions!

Neo_Rokkenjima

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Good afternoon, my brothers and sisters in the art of bonsai. I am making my first thread on this forum, in need of advice regarding which direction I ought to take my newly-acquired "Wintergreen" Boxwood tree.

I recently acquired this tree, along with a Serissa Japonica (which is doing splendid in my office,) as one of my first ever serious attempts at bonsai. Together, they are my first trees (or rather, shrubs) which I've ever purchased.

I first bought this tree about two months ago, from a wonderful nearby bonsai shop for a mere $55.00. The tree had been a bit neglected at the time, which is why its owner had discounted the price so heavily discounted. Despite being new to bonsai, I know a good deal when I see one. The tree was (and is still) in perfectly good health, aside from needing to be repotted, and has the most lovely gnarled bark, as well as many other interesting features-- including an enormous nebari, some deadwood, and a beautiful distribution of knots and lichens. Needless to say, I couldn't resist the offer. Excited about my first "real" bonsai, as well as marking my first time starting a bonsai project from an older specimen, I took some time to ponder how I ought to develop the tree: As an informal upright, or as a serious windswept/ semi-cascade.

Semi-Cascade: This was my original idea for the tree. This approach would involve me slanting the tree very slightly, to highlight one of the two upper "arms" of the tree which have developed around the center, and sacrificing the other (or else converting it into deadwood, which would be my preferred option if it were to make sense.) Most likely, I would keep the "left" arm, seeing as it already has a bit of a curve, better padding, plenty of new growth, and less deadwood. I would probably take off the deadwood spike that protrudes towards the viewer, for the sake of improving the tree's overall aesthetic. That all being said, I see a serious con of this approach being that the trunk is just too "upright" to warrant doing something like this. I do not want any "slant" to appear intentional.

Below: The "front" of the tree. The front has superior trunk/ branch visibility over the back, as well as many interesting features in the wood itself which the rear does not possess. Personally, I think the visual interest of the bark is higher in the front.
Incidentally, you can tell from the picture that, at some point in this tree's development, what would have become the apex became deadwood, causing the tree to develop in two completely opposite directions. This vaguely causes the tree to take the appearance of a man raising his arms, as if praising the sun. In this case, the "head" would be the deadwood occupying the center of the tree. If you're confused about my uses of the terms "head" and "arms," this is what I'm referring to.


WGBW1_Front1.jpeg


Informal Upright: I would display the tree "from behind," working on developing the two excellent base pads in the back, and shaping the upper foliage into pads where applicable. Where impossible, I would create additional deadwood towards the top of the tree, leaving long, white spikes to complement the round, green foliage. This would likely include pruning a certain shoot back to about where my fingers are clamping the branch in my picture, in order to improve the ramification. At this point in time, I think I am leaning towards this strategy.

Below: The "rear" of the tree, or perhaps the "new front" if I were to develop it as an informal upright. The rear, in my opinion, has vastly more interesting trunk direction, as well as a superior visibility of the most interesting parts of the nebari. Where things become difficult is that the developing base pads cloud out everything behind them. Alas, considering the situation with the center of the tree being occupied by a "head" of deadwood, I feel the next step in developing the tree this way is not obvious.

WGBW1_Rear1.jpeg

Below: Better visibility of the "pads" developing in the back of the tree.

WGBW1_Rear2_Pads.jpeg
WGBW1_Rear3_Pads.jpeg



???: I think there is a possible third idea in chopping back both of the large "arms" towering above the center of the tree, possibly eliminating one or both of them, and favoring the two base-level "pads" while trying to develop the tree more formally. This was the approach that the local bonsai shop owner recommended to me, and I think it is a good one as it would give me the freedom to display the tree from the front, highlighting the trunk, while strengthening interest in the back. That said, for this to really work, I would also need to cut off the entire "head" of the tree, in addition to its arms, and hope that a new apex is produced where that once stood. I see this as being a frightening idea, considering as I am a beginner and would be worried about killing the tree by making suck an enormous cut into its trunk. Further, in addition to taking a very long time to yield results, the end result would not be guaranteed to have been worth the time invested. This is my biggest fear, as I'd really like to enjoy the tree little by little without waiting for some big payoff. Nevertheless I am open to doing whatever I must in order to turn this into an excellent bonsai.

Please let me know your thoughts and opinions on what I ought to be doing in order to improve this bonsai; I especially need help deciding which stylistic direction I ought to take it in, as well as which viewing angle to utilize, but all suggestions are welcome. Additionally, if you have any as-of-yet unmentioned ideas, I am certainly open to doing something other than that which I've already suggested for the tree. I have no experience keeping boxwoods, and had actually been intending to buy a ficus at its time of purchase, so general advice from people who do have experience with boxwoods is also very much welcome.
 

Neo_Rokkenjima

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Update: Rather than displaying this tree from the "front" or "back" as I've identified them, I've actually found a half-side profile to be quite attractive. This has the unfortunate effect of reducing the view of the splendid nebari, but gives a fantastic viewing angle of the long left "arm" without shoving branches in your face or in front of the trunk. Will post pictures when I take them.

Still looking for help on this!!
 

rockm

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You've got a broom there. Not much else you can do with all those large branches emanating from a single point. At least nothing that won't require significant in-ground redevelopment and regrowth...If this were mine, I'd reduce all those big branches to their smallest branch close to the trunk and work from that as a skeleton for a broom or broomish tree.
 

Ply

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Keep in mind that boxwoods are notorious for being hard to wire. The wood is so stiff, bending branches of any significant thickness is near impossible. With boxwood it's either wire very early on or create motion in the branches by pruning.

Combine that with the fact that you have a tall straight trunk and all branches eminating from the same spot, I don't really see a semi-cascade or informal upright happening for this tree.

It's best to work with what the tree is giving you, rather then 'forcing' a style upon a tree. And I agree with @rockm, this tree is very much saying broom style.

broom boxwood.png
 

Shibui

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Semi-Cascade: This was my original idea for the tree. This approach would involve me slanting the tree very slightly, to highlight one of the two upper "arms" of the tree which have developed around the center, and sacrificing the other (or else converting it into deadwood, which would be my preferred option if it were to make sense.) Most likely, I would keep the "left" arm, seeing as it already has a bit of a curve, better padding, plenty of new growth, and less deadwood.
I can't really see this producing a good semi cascade.
Tilting the tree enough to get either side down close to horizontal will either bury half the nebari or expose the other half.
The branch which appears to have a nice curve is not really enough to make a good semi cascade which would ideally have more bends to show the harsh conditions which produce such trees and, as mentioned, buxus is very difficult to bend.

Informal upright may be possible but don't rely on the other large branch as a side branch. That doesn't work well in the long run as the fork and size of the new branch is never good.

You can convert almost anything to almost anything given enough time and technique but from the pics I'd also go for broom style as the quickest option.
 

Neo_Rokkenjima

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It sounds like a broom may be the way to go then! My only concern would be that the bulk of the foliage is coming from those two big branches which split out from the middle. The middle, itself, is deadwood. I had actually thought about doing a broom early on, but ruled it out because of this problem. Any advice guys? What should I do to make this tree more like a broom?

I'd reduce all those big branches to their smallest branch close to the trunk and work from that

I'm not really sure what you mean by this. Could you clarify?
 

rockm

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It sounds like a broom may be the way to go then! My only concern would be that the bulk of the foliage is coming from those two big branches which split out from the middle. The middle, itself, is deadwood. I had actually thought about doing a broom early on, but ruled it out because of this problem. Any advice guys? What should I do to make this tree more like a broom?



I'm not really sure what you mean by this. Could you clarify?
Cut back to where the first leaves are on each branch.
 

Neo_Rokkenjima

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Thanks for explaining, although I'd be a bit remiss to lose so much length on those big branches. I'll take a look when I get home today and see if I can bring myself to do it. The two large ones are big enough that I may need a saw to get through them (then again, maybe not.)
 

rockm

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Thanks for explaining, although I'd be a bit remiss to lose so much length on those big branches. I'll take a look when I get home today and see if I can bring myself to do it. The two large ones are big enough that I may need a saw to get through them (then again, maybe not.)
No guts, no bonsai... 😁 Doesn't really have to be the last bit of green, but ALL of those branches require drastic shortening, half AT LEAST.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Generally, trees are developed in thirds. Trunk, Primary Branching and Tertiary Branching. Each segment will usually be 1/3 of the total height or length of the tree. Length comes into play with cascade styles. My illustration is a crude broom style.

IMG_20220718_131947356.jpg
 
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