For the love of Prunus mume...

It does look nice, but there's a huge mess now. Downed trees and broken branches everywhere.
Sorry to hear that, see why I hate winter?? Hopefully, your power comes on soon.
 
Looks like you got it about the same as I did. Since living in Front Royal we have had a 40", a 36", a couple from 24-30", and several at 8 to 18 inches. We have not had a good one in several years. Or should I say bad one? I like a little snow now and again but anything over 8 inches is a chore. It is sure beautiful, but a bit treacherous from time to time.
My grandfather used to say a snow was like a beautiful woman, but I will leave the end of this unfinished statement alone.
 
Looks like you got it about the same as I did. Since living in Front Royal we have had a 40", a 36", a couple from 24-30", and several at 8 to 18 inches. We have not had a good one in several years. Or should I say bad one? I like a little snow now and again but anything over 8 inches is a chore. It is sure beautiful, but a bit treacherous from time to time.
My grandfather used to say a snow was like a beautiful woman, but I will leave the end of this unfinished statement alone.
We averaged about 9-10" here. Still no power and they still didn't clean the roads. We are basically stuck here at the house.
 
Mine were so disappointing this year. I enjoyed them for a couple of days and then got the hardest rains of the year. The rain did a number on them. Also hurts the temp went from 75 to 40 in 3-4 days.
 
I just inspected the remaining mume that have flower buds. I would say about half of the buds have been damaged by the storm we recently had. This is really unfortunate as I was planning to catalog all the flowers this year.

On a side note I took some cuttings of 'Kanko bai' today. Let's see if they callus by March/April time frame.

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I just inspected the remaining mume that have flower buds. I would say about half of the buds have been damaged by the storm we recently had. This is really unfortunate as I was planning to catalog all the flowers this year.

On a side note I took some cuttings of 'Kanko bai' today. Let's see if they callus by March/April time frame.

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It is unfortunate but not a disaster by a long shot. We're not going anywhere.:oops:
 
@Pitoon hope you've made a full recovery!

I came across the attached image in my Prunus mume notes, and thought it might be of interest to you who is concerned with invisible grafts junctions.

The diagram shows 2 grafting approaches for Prunus mume propagation with only a subtle difference between them. The upper approach is described as the 'garden center' method that creates a bulge. The lower approach is said to have been conceived by Hikotaro Hirao (平尾彦太郎) and creates a junction without a bulge or scar.
 

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@Pitoon hope you've made a full recovery!

I came across the attached image in my Prunus mume notes, and thought it might be of interest to you who is concerned with invisible grafts junctions.

The diagram shows 2 grafting approaches for Prunus mume propagation with only a subtle difference between them. The upper approach is described as the 'garden center' method that creates a bulge. The lower approach is said to have been conceived by Hikotaro Hirao (平尾彦太郎) and creates a junction without a bulge or scar.
The trees that had mature flower buds were damaged to the point that they will not bloom. The trees that have immature flower buds seem to have been unaffected by the snow/cold. So it's looking as I will have very few flowers this season.
Some of the grafts that are in the hoop tunnel were protected and will soon bloom which is good news, once they do the tops will be cut back.

I do appreciate you keeping me in mind posting that diagram. Those grafts are considered cleft grafts. They are done quite often on fruit trees that have either slowed down on production or the grower wants to swap out the cultivar completely. They are effective and easy to do. The only thing I don't like about them is that if you are grafting you have to cut the top off completely. If the graft fails you can loose the rootstock or it will push new growth below the cut using up energy reserves.

If you look at this graft I did below. It's very similar to the lower example of the diagram you posted. Only difference is that I did not cut the top off. I left it on to keep the sap flow going, my take is that this method can help the graft heal faster. Also if the graft fails I won't loose the rootstock nor will the rootstock use up energy to push out new growth below the grafting point as the top is still attached. My method can help save the rootstock and prevent useless usage of reserves. If the graft fails I can simply graft on the opposite or below the original grafting point. Once the graft is joined to the rootstock I will cut in the same manner as in the diagram at an acute angle.

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I do appreciate you keeping me in mind posting that diagram. Those grafts are considered cleft grafts. They are done quite often on fruit trees that have either slowed down on production or the grower wants to swap out the cultivar completely. They are effective and easy to do. The only thing I don't like about them is that if you are grafting you have to cut the top off completely. If the graft fails you can loose the rootstock or it will push new growth below the cut using up energy reserves.

If you look at this graft I did below. It's very similar to the lower example of the diagram you posted. Only difference is that I did not cut the top off. I left it on to keep the sap flow going, my take is that this method can help the graft heal faster. Also if the graft fails I won't loose the rootstock nor will the rootstock use up energy to push out new growth below the grafting point as the top is still attached. My method can help save the rootstock and prevent useless usage of reserves. If the graft fails I can simply graft on the opposite or below the original grafting point. Once the graft is joined to the rootstock I will cut in the same manner as in the diagram at an acute angle.

I don't think either of the 2 grafts in the diagram I posted are cleft grafts. The major difference, from what I can tell, is the angle of the scion:

In the upper approach, a portion of the scion is 'shaved' as it were
in the lower approach, the end of the scion is simply cut on a 30-degree angle

With both approaches, the upper portion of the rootstock can be preserved, and I agree with you: I always preserve the upper portion of the rootstock because my Ume rootstock is in short supply + I use the upper portion of the rootstock for cuttings in May/June before removing the upper portion completely if the graft has taken and is doing well.
 
I don't think either of the 2 grafts in the diagram I posted are cleft grafts. The major difference, from what I can tell, is the angle of the scion:

In the upper approach, a portion of the scion is 'shaved' as it were
in the lower approach, the end of the scion is simply cut on a 30-degree angle

With both approaches, the upper portion of the rootstock can be preserved, and I agree with you: I always preserve the upper portion of the rootstock because my Ume rootstock is in short supply + I use the upper portion of the rootstock for cuttings in May/June before removing the upper portion completely if the graft has taken and is doing well.
There is a cleft graft and a modified cleft graft. The cleft graft is merely grafting a cut scion onto either a branch or trunk that has been cut off at 90 degrees or flat cut. The cleft graft can be modified (modified cleft graft) based on your situation, grafting preference, or available scion stock on how you attach the scion to the rootstock. The method for cleft grafts is the same grafting onto a flat cut, however the approach can be different (modified). The degree of the cut on the scion has nothing to do with the type of graft it is. One can attach the scion many ways, but if it's attached to a flat cut.....it's a cleft graft.

The type of graft I did is called a side graft in the picture above. The idea is to cut back at an acute angle once the graft is joined. Only in my case I did not cut off the top for the reasons I mentioned above. My method and the second method in the diagram will result in the tree looking the same at the end when cut.
 
LOL I don't think I am as pre-occupied with naming things as you are, especially when you get into variations on modifications, it becomes ridiculous

I shared this diagram with you because I thought you might be interested. The book shows 2 types of graft, and says that the lower is better than the upper in term of bulges and scars.

Interpret them how you want, call them what you want, do what you want but above all, have a nice day my friend and good luck with your snow
 
LOL I don't think I am as pre-occupied with naming things as you are, especially when you get into variations on modifications, it becomes ridiculous

I shared this diagram with you because I thought you might be interested. The book shows 2 types of graft, and says that the lower is better than the upper in term of bulges and scars.

Interpret them how you want, call them what you want, do what you want but above all, have a nice day my friend and good luck with your snow
Well you suggested that they were not cleft grafts.........I was just trying to inform you that they are and explained why with the intention that you can learn something.

You can call them whatever you want, but if you are in discussion with someone about something you should discuss in correct terms. When it comes down to it a graft is a graft at the end of the day. However they are categorized so there is a better understanding. If you tell me a graft....I'm going to ask what type of graft if you don't tell me. Is that really being pre-occupied to be specific?

With your attitude I will refrain myself from doing so in the future. Thanks for posting the diagram, no thanks for this discussion.

Enjoy your day.
 
This mume 'Hana Kami' is just about to bloom. It was safe from the past storm and the current cold temps right now by staying in the hoop tunnel. It amazing the temperature difference inside the hoop tunnel from outside all by just a sheet of plastic.

You can never have enough mume around!

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