It does look nice, but there's a huge mess now. Downed trees and broken branches everywhere.Great pictures though!
Good luck with the snow!
I was thinking the same thing!Great pictures though!
Good luck with the snow!
Sorry to hear that, see why I hate winter?? Hopefully, your power comes on soon.It does look nice, but there's a huge mess now. Downed trees and broken branches everywhere.
We have a wood stove to stay warm. This is the most snow we've seen since moving to Maryland.Sorry to hear that, see why I hate winter?? Hopefully, your power comes on soon.
We averaged about 9-10" here. Still no power and they still didn't clean the roads. We are basically stuck here at the house.Looks like you got it about the same as I did. Since living in Front Royal we have had a 40", a 36", a couple from 24-30", and several at 8 to 18 inches. We have not had a good one in several years. Or should I say bad one? I like a little snow now and again but anything over 8 inches is a chore. It is sure beautiful, but a bit treacherous from time to time.
My grandfather used to say a snow was like a beautiful woman, but I will leave the end of this unfinished statement alone.
That sucks. But you DO have some great images there!Still no power and they still didn't clean the roads. We are basically stuck here at the house.
It is unfortunate but not a disaster by a long shot. We're not going anywhere.I just inspected the remaining mume that have flower buds. I would say about half of the buds have been damaged by the storm we recently had. This is really unfortunate as I was planning to catalog all the flowers this year.
On a side note I took some cuttings of 'Kanko bai' today. Let's see if they callus by March/April time frame.
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The trees that had mature flower buds were damaged to the point that they will not bloom. The trees that have immature flower buds seem to have been unaffected by the snow/cold. So it's looking as I will have very few flowers this season.@Pitoon hope you've made a full recovery!
I came across the attached image in my Prunus mume notes, and thought it might be of interest to you who is concerned with invisible grafts junctions.
The diagram shows 2 grafting approaches for Prunus mume propagation with only a subtle difference between them. The upper approach is described as the 'garden center' method that creates a bulge. The lower approach is said to have been conceived by Hikotaro Hirao (平尾彦太郎) and creates a junction without a bulge or scar.
I do appreciate you keeping me in mind posting that diagram. Those grafts are considered cleft grafts. They are done quite often on fruit trees that have either slowed down on production or the grower wants to swap out the cultivar completely. They are effective and easy to do. The only thing I don't like about them is that if you are grafting you have to cut the top off completely. If the graft fails you can loose the rootstock or it will push new growth below the cut using up energy reserves.
If you look at this graft I did below. It's very similar to the lower example of the diagram you posted. Only difference is that I did not cut the top off. I left it on to keep the sap flow going, my take is that this method can help the graft heal faster. Also if the graft fails I won't loose the rootstock nor will the rootstock use up energy to push out new growth below the grafting point as the top is still attached. My method can help save the rootstock and prevent useless usage of reserves. If the graft fails I can simply graft on the opposite or below the original grafting point. Once the graft is joined to the rootstock I will cut in the same manner as in the diagram at an acute angle.
There is a cleft graft and a modified cleft graft. The cleft graft is merely grafting a cut scion onto either a branch or trunk that has been cut off at 90 degrees or flat cut. The cleft graft can be modified (modified cleft graft) based on your situation, grafting preference, or available scion stock on how you attach the scion to the rootstock. The method for cleft grafts is the same grafting onto a flat cut, however the approach can be different (modified). The degree of the cut on the scion has nothing to do with the type of graft it is. One can attach the scion many ways, but if it's attached to a flat cut.....it's a cleft graft.I don't think either of the 2 grafts in the diagram I posted are cleft grafts. The major difference, from what I can tell, is the angle of the scion:
In the upper approach, a portion of the scion is 'shaved' as it were
in the lower approach, the end of the scion is simply cut on a 30-degree angle
With both approaches, the upper portion of the rootstock can be preserved, and I agree with you: I always preserve the upper portion of the rootstock because my Ume rootstock is in short supply + I use the upper portion of the rootstock for cuttings in May/June before removing the upper portion completely if the graft has taken and is doing well.
Well you suggested that they were not cleft grafts.........I was just trying to inform you that they are and explained why with the intention that you can learn something.LOL I don't think I am as pre-occupied with naming things as you are, especially when you get into variations on modifications, it becomes ridiculous
I shared this diagram with you because I thought you might be interested. The book shows 2 types of graft, and says that the lower is better than the upper in term of bulges and scars.
Interpret them how you want, call them what you want, do what you want but above all, have a nice day my friend and good luck with your snow