MIRAI YATSUBUSA ELM

bwaynef

Omono
Messages
1,972
Reaction score
2,329
Location
Clemson SC
USDA Zone
8a
I noticed something like that on my (much smaller) corkbark elm. Any idea what indicators are for that time of year, @cmeg1? Looks like Peach Leaf Curl is Taphrina deformans. See below for a few fungicides that list either of those. On peaches, looks like infection occurs w/in 2 weeks of budding out. Treatment is in fall or whenever they go dormant w/ a fungicide applied to the point of dripping off. I saw one article that mentioned some people in certain climates report (some) success w/ Spring as well as Fall fungicide applications. (With this information, I'm going to hit mine w/ Daconil soon and in the Fall.)

$ grep -i curl *
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt:peach Leaf Curl
$ grep -i taphrina *
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt:Taphrina
biophospro.txt:Taphrina
biophospro.txt~:Taphrina
chlorothalanil.txt:Taphrina Blister
daconil.txt:Taphrina Blister

I also see Copper & Bordeaux mixture listed for treatment.
 

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,066
Reaction score
28,384
Location
Northern New Jersey
I had just been thinking of this sort of thing recently. ?


A nifty little trick I learned from the master himself Bill Valavanis. It is very useful specially when you are exhibiting a tree.


I noticed something like that on my (much smaller) corkbark elm. Any idea what indicators are for that time of year, @cmeg1? Looks like Peach Leaf Curl is Taphrina deformans. See below for a few fungicides that list either of those. On peaches, looks like infection occurs w/in 2 weeks of budding out. Treatment is in fall or whenever they go dormant w/ a fungicide applied to the point of dripping off. I saw one article that mentioned some people in certain climates report (some) success w/ Spring as well as Fall fungicide applications. (With this information, I'm going to hit mine w/ Daconil soon and in the Fall.)

$ grep -i curl *
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt:peach Leaf Curl
$ grep -i taphrina *
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt:Taphrina
biophospro.txt:Taphrina
biophospro.txt~:Taphrina
chlorothalanil.txt:Taphrina Blister
daconil.txt:Taphrina Blister

I also see Copper & Bordeaux mixture listed for treatment.


Ryan often recommends Mancozeb as one of the best fungicides. I started to use it last year.
 

bwaynef

Omono
Messages
1,972
Reaction score
2,329
Location
Clemson SC
USDA Zone
8a
He recommends Mancozeb for junipers. Daconil for Pines. I haven't heard a recommendation for Elms. Regardless, PLC or T. deformans isn't listed on Mancozeb's label.

$ cat mancozeb.txt
Alternaria Leaf Blight
Alternaria Leaf Spot
Anthracnose
Ascochyta Blight
Bacterial Speck And Spot
Black Rot
Botrytis Leaf Blight
Bunch Rot
Cercospora Leaf Spot
Cersisoira Leaf Spot
Common Rust
Cylindrocladium Rot
Discosia Leaf Spot
Downy Mildew
Early Blight
Fabrea Leaf Spot
Fire Blight
Gray Leaf Spot
Gummy Stem Blight
Helminthosporium
Late Blight
Leaf Blight
Leaf Mold
Microdochium Blight
Neck Rot
Petal Blight
Phomopsis
Phytophthora Twig And Bud Blight
Purple Blotch
Rust
Scab
Septoria Leaf Spot
 

cmeg1

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,345
Reaction score
8,222
Location
Southeast Pennsylvania USA
USDA Zone
7a
Any idea what indicators are for that time of year, @cmeg1? Looks like Peach Leaf
Chans recommedation was removal of it from plant.
It was one of the lesser concerns as apposed to something Bacterial.....I do not have the book no more.My elms always seem to get it in Spring unless under shelter to keep spores off.
If left on the plant they can really take over and desiccate a whole branch of soft growth because I believe the spores will then fall off then leaves and infect other leaves
 

Nybonsai12

Masterpiece
Messages
3,809
Reaction score
7,586
Location
NY
USDA Zone
7a
Ryan often recommends Mancozeb as one of the best fungicides. I started to use it last year.

I believe Ryan recommended it for more than just junipers, correct? I've heard several people raving about it now.

And yet it's another fungicide I need but can't get here in NY.

back on topic...
I was wondering about how the wire would effect the bark but you answered a few posts back. if i remember correctly although it gives the look of very rugged stiff bark, it's not as firm as it appears, right?

Tree looks great Sergio. How on earth did you move it! lol
 

coh

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,781
Reaction score
6,822
Location
Rochester, NY
USDA Zone
6
Peach leaf curl.A Spring early summer spore in the air...just put trees under a covered top if possible during that time to keep spores off tree.That is why shelter helps.I learned that from one of Peter Chan’s books.
I've suspected peach leaf curl and Neil thought it could be as well. The symptoms I saw didn't exactly match what I've read about peach leaf curl, but were similar. It sounds like peach leaf curl
mainly impacts the leaves on peach trees. On my elms the major impact is in the shoot growth which twists and turns all over the place. If you've ever seen the way contorted filbert grows,
it's something like that. I have a photo around someplace, if I can find it I'll post it. Leaves were affected too but not that was not as severe. I suppose the same organism could impact different
plants in somewhat different ways but would be interested to know if anyone has ever positively ID'd the organism to see if it's the same one.

Anyway...the combination of daconil (regularly from bud swelling well into early summer) and keeping it out of the rain and cold/misty nights seemed to do the trick.
 

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,066
Reaction score
28,384
Location
Northern New Jersey
I believe Ryan recommended it for more than just junipers, correct? I've heard several people raving about it now.

And yet it's another fungicide I need but can't get here in NY.

back on topic...
I was wondering about how the wire would effect the bark but you answered a few posts back. if i remember correctly although it gives the look of very rugged stiff bark, it's not as firm as it appears, right?

Tree looks great Sergio. How on earth did you move it! lol


Bri, Mancozeb is a broad spectrum fungicide that treats a bunch of diseases. Perhaps not all but many! It is perfectly safe to use on both deciduous and conifers alike. It is particularly effective against phomopsis in junipers but can be applied to many other species for treatment or as a general good preventative.

Yes, the bark is delicate. It appears very tough but not so! You can damage it very easily if not careful. The branches don't quite have the bark that the trunk has so I was not overly concerned when I applied the wire. Elms tend to snap on you easily. They are quite flexible until well.... they are not! And suddenly you find yourself with the branch on your hand. So care needs to be exercised when doing your bends.

I had some good help when I needed to move it into storage. It sits on a cart that I move in and out as weather permits. Around late March/early April it will be moved to the garden once again.
 

0soyoung

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,496
Reaction score
12,832
Location
Anacortes, WA (AHS heat zone 1)
USDA Zone
8b
The branches don't quite have the bark that the trunk has so I was not overly concerned when I applied the wire. Elms tend to snap on you easily. They are quite flexible until well.... they are not! And suddenly you find yourself with the branch on your hand.
Have you noticed whether they 'relax'? That is, bend them a bit, let them sit for a few days, and then they will more readily move a bit farther. Or it is just they will move so far and that is it?
 

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,066
Reaction score
28,384
Location
Northern New Jersey
Have you noticed whether they 'relax'? That is, bend them a bit, let them sit for a few days, and then they will more readily move a bit farther. Or it is just they will move so far and that is it?


Oso, no doubt they would "relax" but I had no need to. I was able to pretty much place them where needed from the get go albeit slowly. I could have cut back the entire thing and regrow it using the cut and grow method but I think a shame not to try and use what was there.
 

coh

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,781
Reaction score
6,822
Location
Rochester, NY
USDA Zone
6
Sergio, not sure if you're still a mirai member? He had a video last week (I think) about styling a large field grown corkbark elm. Made a big point about how one could
reduce the risk of branches snapping by twisting/rotating them (in the direction of the wire) as you bend. This apparently distributes the force so that one can achieve
a greater bend than without twisting. You probably know this but others may not. It's something I've just started doing more often when I wire trees especially those that are "snappy".
 

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,066
Reaction score
28,384
Location
Northern New Jersey
Sergio, not sure if you're still a mirai member? He had a video last week (I think) about styling a large field grown corkbark elm. Made a big point about how one could
reduce the risk of branches snapping by twisting/rotating them (in the direction of the wire) as you bend. This apparently distributes the force so that one can achieve
a greater bend than without twisting. You probably know this but others may not. It's something I've just started doing more often when I wire trees especially those that are "snappy".


Thank you Chris! I was aware but as you say good to put it out there. He talked about it also as he was styling a very old juniper at the "Trophy" event demo. It makes perfect sense!
 

LanceMac10

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,798
Reaction score
17,176
Location
Nashua, NH U.S.A.
USDA Zone
5
send you a hanky! :p

''''a tissue for my issue''''':D:D:D:D:D:D:D
CryingIndian.gif

It nice to see material of this caliber make it's way to the East Coast. Particularly under your care and with maybe a different vision for it's future than the previous steward......


….now where is my Guinness......:cool::D:D:D:D:D:D
bandit.gif
 
Last edited:

Ingvill

Shohin
Messages
292
Reaction score
362
Location
Norway
USDA Zone
6
Beautiful tree, so inspirational to see your progress so far, looking forward to more updates :)
 

MACH5

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,066
Reaction score
28,384
Location
Northern New Jersey
Finished the work for now and ready to be placed back in the garden for another growing season. There is a thick and straight branch at the back that will be air layered and shorten later and another, also towards the back, that one of its long shoots is being used for a thread graft. Once that's completed that thick branch will need to be wired and bent.

IMG_1442.jpg

IMG_1456.jpgIMG_1457.jpgIMG_1458.jpgIMG_1460.jpgIMG_1459.jpg





Close up of a thread graft at the back of the tree. In this species it seems these grafts take much longer. It has been a year and it is still in progress.

IMG_1450.jpg
 

PeaceLoveBonsai

Chumono
Messages
889
Reaction score
2,979
Location
Franklin, TN
USDA Zone
7a
Finished the work for now and ready to be placed back in the garden for another growing season. There is a thick and straight branch at the back that will be air layered and shorten later and another, also towards the back, that one of its long shoots is being used for a thread graft. Once that's completed that thick branch will need to be wired and bent.

View attachment 237226

View attachment 237227View attachment 237228View attachment 237229View attachment 237232View attachment 237233





Close up of a thread graft at the back of the tree. In this species it seems these grafts take much longer. It has been a year and it is still in progress.

View attachment 237234

Great tree and photos!

When does one know that a thread graft has “taken” and can now be cut from the mother?
 
Top Bottom