Progressive 2016 Bonsai Tip Cooperative

Ironbeaver

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When you go to a nursery/plant store, you don't HAVE TO buy anything. Don't buy crap for the sake of buying something. Also, if you can, bring someone with more bonsai experience with you to the nursery, and get their opinion before you buy.
 

bonhe

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This is my tip and I think it is very important! No kidding!
You can be an expert in training, designing for your bonsai but one doesn't care much about post-transplant phase, the beautiful product can be down to the drain in no time! I know one bonsai expert in Southern California transplanted one of the beautiful California juniper after a big demo here. After demo, that CJ was auctioned. One month later, that CJ became the beautiful wood log !!! One can say after the demo, the tree should have not be transplanted because it already suffered lot of stresses through splitting wood, pruning, wiring, and bending; now it was transplanted at the same time! I believe post-transplant care is so important factor to help the tree pass through the tough time and go to recovery phase.

I found lot of information on the books and internet about the post- transplant care. They always tell us that keeping the tree in cool, shady and ventilated place for few weeks before placing the tree in sunny area. For me, humidity is another factor needed to be added into this critical time. If you place the tree in area satisfied above condition but low humidity, the tree can die from the dehydration via evaporation through the leaf system and lack of water absorption via the root system.

The ideal humidity is 60 - 80 %. My area is so dry, so I have used the misty system to keep up the humidity needed for the tree.

This area in my garden is perfect for new transplant, cutting, grafting, or sensitive plants. It is in the East side and there is 2 landscape trees side by side with few short shrubs covered side by side.
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Those are new transplanted KBP, CJ; new separated Toyo Nishiki air layering and cutting; olive cuttings!
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The misty system was placed from above.
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You can see how hard of the water in my area!!!
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Hope it help whoever wants to improve the transplant succeeding rate!
Bonhe
 

sorce

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This is excellent.....

Further.....I am convinced that a dense block of feeders goes a long way towards any process.....
I think we have a general misunderstanding of how a really good root system increases succesfull odds.

We have a general misunderstanding of What a good root system is.

Colanders.
Screen sided anythings.

I love these boxes we build....but I can't fathom not having something in a colander at all times.

And Use Local Material!

Sorce
 

BobbyLane

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Following on from what Bon wrote, some bonsai enthusiasts cover the surface soil in chopped/soaked spagnum moss after re potting, it helps the roots to stay moist while they establish and can be taken off after a few weeks, i believe it provides a humid enviroment for breaking buds too as moisture from the moss evaporates.
I do it myself with some of mine now.
 

PaulH

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- Feed the hell out of young, developing material to get size and back - budding. Control feed mature bonsai to maintain shape, internode length and ramification.

- Don't get carried away with power tool carving. Carving by hand looks more natural. Power tools are great for removing lots of wood though.

- Keep your tools sharp and clean with alcohol between trees.

- Water by hand. You see your trees daily and catch problems early.

- Use one size bigger wire than you think you need.

- Plan before cutting... then cut boldly.

- If you've seldom or never seen a certain species as bonsai, it is for good reason.

- Use steel wire to tie your trees in the pot. Its cheaper and will rust away by the time of next transplant.

- When you're working on a tree, walk away frequently and look at it from a distance.
 

Cadillactaste

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If you buy new material, dont let the resaon be because it was cheap, on sale,.., buy it because you believe it has potential. And even then think twice before you buy it.

Wise words...just because it can be a bonsai...doesn't meant it should be. Be proud of what goes to the bench.
 

jomawa

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* When growing a vine maple forest in a soap dish, (see "Whimsy", my avatar) I suggest you start with maples large enough to fill the dish. (If they grow too large, you can move them to the next larger dish.)

* Prior to doing whatever endeavor, gain enough knowledge/education beforehand so what you do tends to match your expectations.

*For those trying to be economical on bases, (not needing to buy a base worth hundreds so as to have an equivalent point value in the judges mind at the bonsai trails), a pipe shaped diamond impregnated glass borer works great on cheap (gleaned from wherever) ceramic platters, trays, and bowls.

*If trying to help someone advance in their endeavors, be a coach rather than a critic.
 

Adair M

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- Use steel wire to tie your trees in the pot. Its cheaper and will rust away by the time of next transplant.

Not so sure I agree with this one. Does Stainless Steel dissolve in soil? I know John Naka used to throw nails in on the bottom of root balls. Fed 'em iron he said. But, I want my tree to remain wired into the pot until I take it out. Aluminum is cheap and is easier to manipulate. (As evidenced by the rather large cut I got on my hand yesterday repairing some smooth steel wire horse fence!)
 

Arcto

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Another good thread. On very cold winter days, bumping into, moving trees or heavy snow loads can cause unintentional restyling of your trees if they are frozen. On the flip side, this is a great time to make clean breaks to create jin. All the Jin breaks in the photo were made with my bare hands and fingers. Not possible to do it this way when it is warmer.
image.jpg
 

wireme

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Another good thread. On very cold winter days, bumping into, moving trees or heavy snow loads can cause unintentional restyling of your trees if they are frozen. On the flip side, this is a great time to make clean breaks to create jin. All the Jin breaks in the photo were made with my bare hands and fingers. Not possible to do it this way when it is warmer.
View attachment 90828
Huh, interesting idea, I usually peel, wait till dry then snap. Frozen snappering eh? May try it someday.
I've had the snow breakage problem, if the trees are packed together so tightly that snow builds up on the canopy without room to filter through and support from underneath it is more likely to cause breakage issues. Pretty cold today, trees making those crack pop sounds in the woods.
 

Arcto

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-20C when I did it.
 
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If you want to know whether your wire is thick enough to hold the branch in desired shape, unroll the wire to about 15 cm (no need to cut it off yet), place it on top of the branch and push it down.
If the wire bends, get a thicker one. If the branch bends, it's fine.

No need to wire fresh growth with 5 mm wire tho!
 
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