Radialayer™ a season saver.

M. Frary

Bonsai Godzilla
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Mio Michigan
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little sphagnum
I did a layer and just used D.E. It worked great and I didn't need to untangle roots from the sphagnum. Also the roots were stronger than if using sphagnum.
the Michael Hagedorn article " Life without Turface ".
He just didn't know how to water. Turface is used by lots of bonsai growers with no problem. Then again he also believes that akadama is the end all be all in bonsai soil.
 

szelelaci

Mame
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I've done radial layer on an oak and 2 oriental hornbeams, I hope they will know what to do.. :) I didn't make photo about the peat layer (I couldn't buy sphagnum).
 

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substratum

Shohin
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Red Hills/Florida Big Bend
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Eh...I got some pumice...
Put a seedling JBP in it.
Doing exactly as well as one in DE bigsift.
And the one in DE smallsift is doing slightly better than both.
All kept soaked twice a day and fished daily.

I thought I would be an instant pumice fan...

Not so yet.

Sorce
Sorce - can you tell me what is the meaning of your use of “fished”, above?

Anyone - I’ve seen the expression used in what appears to be a different context of bonsai on this forum, too. For example, “I fished an oak and a maple, today.” What does that refer to?
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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Sorce - can you tell me what is the meaning of your use of “fished”, above?

Anyone - I’ve seen the expression used in what appears to be a different context of bonsai on this forum, too. For example, “I fished an oak and a maple, today.” What does that refer to?

Alaska Fish fert.

Sorce
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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This is a great idea. Trying it out on my Sharp's Pygmy with built in peek hole. Container was from Walmart (about $5.00/ top locks in place). It is grafted with too long of a trunk.
Its been about 9 weeks and there is no sign of roots in my peek window. I wrapped the front with aluminum foil and added extra chopped sphagnum to the top to protect from the heat. I'm in zone 6b NJ, does anyone know if this is normal at this stage.
 

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sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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Its been about 9 weeks and there is no sign of roots in my peek window. I wrapped the front with aluminum foil and added extra chopped sphagnum to the top to protect from the heat. I'm in zone 6b NJ, does anyone know if this is normal at this stage.

It'll probly root after summer.

Top seems healthy.!

Sorce
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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It'll probly root after summer.

Top seems healthy.!

Sorce
Would spraying some spinosad in the layer pot affect root growth. I want to discourage bugs from setting up camp.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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You know how they advertise to us using strong syllables....?

I'll have a dozen reasons to not use that stuff before getting to any actual bonsai reasons!

Sorce
 

szelelaci

Mame
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hi, I am wondering what are the steps, after my air layers root. I think I definetly have to remove them before winter, becuse it can be very cold around here (-15 celsius). The first branches start from 1,5 - 2 meters above ground. Is it OK, if I remove the top before I separate the box (actually I don't really have any other choice because they are really big...). Is that a problem if they don't have any foliage? Should I just slip pot it, and leave it for a year or two to get used to the pot?
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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Update on Sharps pygmy! Signs that the radialdisc is working. Looks like the roots are growing through the drain holes. Had to take a peek in case it calloused over. Going to wait at least another 3 or 4 weeks. Maybe even keep it on over winter in my garage if needed.
It just recovering from a partial defoliation so I am hesitant to rush things. (Maybe from sun stress or too much clonex). I was Also thinking the leaves drying may have signaled root growth. Its back budding like crazy now. The plumber's putty was sagging due to the heat so I had to put some stones and zip ties underneath to support it. 20180812_113304.jpg20180812_115258.jpg
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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hi, I am wondering what are the steps, after my air layers root. I think I definetly have to remove them before winter, becuse it can be very cold around here (-15 celsius). The first branches start from 1,5 - 2 meters above ground. Is it OK, if I remove the top before I separate the box (actually I don't really have any other choice because they are really big...). Is that a problem if they don't have any foliage? Should I just slip pot it, and leave it for a year or two to get used to the pot?
What did you end up doing? I've learned that oaks are not a very forgiving tree when you mess with their roots.
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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We are getting a lot of rain and cloudy weather predicted for the next week so I thought I could separate my air layer (ap Sharps pygmy). The roots grew vigorously on one side; So much that they grew up into the sphagnum preventing me from cleaning all the sphagnum out of the roots before potting it. The other side had no roots just white dots. I put it in the shade drenched with super thrive, secured with wire. Is there anything I can do to increase the survival rate.(@Osoyoung, @MACH5 ) I know @sorce has mentioned problems with overwintering with sphagnum.
 

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erb.75

Chumono
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I need to try radialayer again...my first time trying it a couple years ago was before I had any successful air layers under my belt. Now I have done 2 with success (crabapple and zelkova)

I had the crabapple air layer in 100% sphagnum moss over the past winter and it's doing great. Planning on doing the same for the zelkova
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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I need to try radialayer again...my first time trying it a couple years ago was before I had any successful air layers under my belt. Now I have done 2 with success (crabapple and zelkova)

I had the crabapple air layer in 100% sphagnum moss over the past winter and it's doing great. Planning on doing the same for the zelkova
Good luck! Did any of your layers come out one sided. I think I've seen a few like that posted lately.
 

erb.75

Chumono
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don't know... I don't take enough moss off 1st year to know..I give the plant 1 year post air layer to let the roots stabilize and strengthen
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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don't know... I don't take enough moss off 1st year to know..I give the plant 1 year post air layer to let the roots stabilize and strengthen
I'm thinking about foliar feeding it some seaweed to bolster its energy.
 

szelelaci

Mame
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ohh sorry about the mess regarding the photos, the site tricked me, it seemed, that the pictures are not loaded up, so I uploaded them agian, then they showed up twice...
 

szelelaci

Mame
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What did you end up doing? I've learned that oaks are not a very forgiving tree when you mess with their roots.

I covered them with mulch and left them in the forest for winter, few weeks ago, when weather forecast predicted massive minuses I brought them home, and burried them in the garden. yesterday I potted them, see pictures above. The oak bridged over completely so I removed the box, and left it there
 

Johnnyd

Shohin
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Update on the elm layers I started last summer. I potted them yesterday. One of them has remarkable roots all around the trunk, the other one bridged over a bit so it turned out one-sided unfortunately.
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Nice roots! Perfect execution!
 
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