Just keep spraying and removing damaged leaves. You'll get thru this. The big piece of advice for all you maple keepers with rain and moisture problems is to keep up the spraying thru the winter when there are no leaves. People think the fungus is manifest in the leaves but its in the plant and just shows the symptoms thru the leaves. The anti fungal measures rid the plant of the issues and eventually thru diligent control the leaves will clear up.
I have used systemics in the past and think they have their place but I find them slow to treat. if a person has fungus free plants than a systemic regimen may be an answer. If one develops fungus due to moist conditions then foliar sprays work faster since they allow chemicals to treat the infected tissue close to the part of the plant showing symptoms. I think regular treatment is the best answer and I think either with regular use is the way to go. keep in mind that switching products thru the season is smart also since plant pathogens build resistance to treatment quickly. Having several fungicides at ones disposal is smart and would keep the plant disease free.
Thats interesting, that you view systemics as a preventative. Where i am familiar, turf farming, i use protectants as a preventitive, and systemics as a curative. Well, to be precise i use them both as a preventative. When i see disease i spray, and expect it to protect the healthy plants and keep the disease from spreading. Then the healthy grass can take over the diseased areas. Interesting. Thank you for your thoughts.
I have many farmer friends here in the central valley of California where a majority of the food for the world is grown. I have friends that row farm and have used some of their fungicides on their bonsai and burned leaves up. I think most of the fungicides used for home use like Bayer and Daconil are so mild they need a long time of regular use to be effective. I use them all year round along with lime sulpher in the winter which is the best cause it sets the tree up for the whole year.
All year long, baby. Was hitting everything with Mancozeb as you were typing this. @markyscott does this year-round too.
May I ask how you go about applying it? And is this the only one you use? You’ve probably already posted about it somewhere I bet.
Scott explains it better in the links below, and it’s what I do. LS at leaf-fall, Dormant oil in the winter, LS just at bud-break, and a rotation of Mancozeb, Copper, and Daconil in the growing season, though I’m concerned Daconil stunts growth.
Because the only thing that I did differently this spring (aside from the weather was warm in March and cold in April) was hit everything pretty heavy with Daconil around mid-April. And from that point, everything stopped growing, except the JBP.
Lots of the pros are using Mancozeb. I started using it late last year and the results have been good. Still a little CA rust on a C. Quince and hawthorn but not on RMJ. Needle cast is improving, so is powdery mildew on crape myrtles. Both Daconil and Mancozeb are non-systemic, and both will leave a residue on leaves and pots. Not tough to clean off.
No, not really.
Didn’t think so but I was just worried the peroxide may be old. Think it’s good to go anyway especially since you mix it at a higher concentration that accounts for any degradation
