Subalpine Fir help request

Diggumsmack2

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Yamadori from the White mountains of New Hampshire. In container for 12+ years🤪, only fertilized and Bud pinched. This past spring the buds were left to there natural course. This being end of summer in Connecticut, looking for some input for repotting and styling. Should I wait to repot? Should I wait to prune and style? Also any input for styling would be much appreciated.




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0soyoung

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I think you can safely repot it now as it will certainly be several weeks until any hard freezes.

Regarding styling, the main thing to know is that they are analogous to spruce - cut back to a bud + cut back around now will induce back buds that will be apparent by spring and may even occur on needle-less old wood (e.g., trunk). Don't repot if you prune off much of the new growth. It is most important to keep a vigorous canopy.

You can wire and position branches now without too much sappy/gooey trouble. Do it first, then repot or wait until spring to repot. Repotting and subsequently wiring is generally not a good thing to do.

A fundamental of styling is to frame the most interesting thing (point of interest) with foliage. For example, I think the bark on subalpine fir is the most attractive thing about the species. The bark is always best low on the trunks. Hence, you want low branches hanging down, positioned sorta like you would have your arms and hands if you were trying to draw attention to your denims. Were the lines of your trunks bizarrely wandering around, you might consider literati, but this material simply doesn't have that character.

Start by deciding on the front (view). You want the best compromise of things - fewest flaws, most good things such as nebari, bark on the trunk, trunk movement, and branching. Trunks that come from the ground at an angle, rather than straight up tend to be more attractive. You don't want a branch coming straight out of the front (a so-called eye poker). Then having done this, you will want the top of the tree to be coming forward. It seems so trite, but this key 'subtlety' often makes a big difference. Trunks that lean away tend to feel unfriendly (like recoiling in horror from me). You might simply prop up the pot to achieve this 'bowing to the viewer' and proceed with wiring and positioning branches. Then repot when you are done, putting the tree(s) back into the pot (or another) in that attitude.


It should be lots of fun.
Enjoy :D
 

Diggumsmack2

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I was just worried there was something I should do right away as it hadn't seen a repotting in over a decade. I'm going to go for the restyling and then the repotting next season. The only part that's got me really perplexed is the Apex of the tree on the right hand side,20210925_150129.jpg it's become very thick and unproportioned to the tree not sure what to do there....
 

River's Edge

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I was just worried there was something I should do right away as it hadn't seen a repotting in over a decade. I'm going to go for the restyling and then the repotting next season. The only part that's got me really perplexed is the Apex of the tree on the right hand side,View attachment 399806 it's become very thick and unproportioned to the tree not sure what to do there....
Consider the size of branches as they progress towards the apex. In this case the larger branch on the left side of the right trunk near the apex disrupts the visual. It is too thick for its position near the apex. Often we need to prune back and develop new shoots in that case. Below is an example where larger branches have been removed, apexes have been shortened and new shoots are being selected and grown out to fill in the design. Often it is necessary to set the visual back for better final results. The shortened trunk in the centre is a good example of short term pain for long term gain.
 

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Potawatomi13

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I was just worried there was something I should do right away
THIS has killed more trees than most other causes. PATIENCE is greatest virtue. Personally would wait for late Winter/early Spring and repot. IF tree recovers well make cutting actions recommened by Rivers Edge late Summer/early Fall 2022 with wire 2023. Reason to wait for wiring so roots can establish very well before much wiggling/manhandling done during wiringo_O. Wire firmly into pot for roots protection.
 

River's Edge

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Also any input for styling
Wiring is challenging for Sub Alpine Fir, stiff branches that can thicken quickly and very soft bark. You will need to learn how to select and train smaller branches, new shoots early on for the best results. Wrap wire for better protection if using copper and consider aluminum in some circumstances. 60 degrees works better than 45 with open coils near branch ends to protect juvenile needles and buds. It is not effective to use normal wiring patterns on sub alpine fir. Be sure to set direction for new branches off the trunk or thick branches as soon as possible. Their tendency is to grow upright and thicken quickly as new shoots reaching for the sky. Repeated wiring will be needed to set longer springy branches. Here is a small photo of the adapted wiring pattern or method I prefer with sub alpine fir. They are vigorous in their growth pattern compared to other conifers and that combination with soft smoother bark is tricky for wiring effectiveness. The second photo shows the typical growth pattern off trunk or thick branch. In this case it will become a new apex so wiring was not needed to change direction and future placement.IMG_0275.JPGIMG_1539.JPG
 

Diggumsmack2

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Right or wrong I went with the pruning and styling. Someone had mentioned patience, this poor tree has had an overdose of patience. 12+ years in this container. I had the tree and wasn't really into bonsai anymore. Only bud pinching the tree in spring to keep it small. I imagine some of the needles on there are 14 years old. So spring 2020 I got back into the hobby.

Here's the progress so far, good or bad is what is. Did a little more pruning and wiring after the photo. Figured a few members were interested in this.


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CaptainFuzzy

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Right or wrong I went with the pruning and styling. Someone had mentioned patience, this poor tree has had an overdose of patience. 12+ years in this container. I had the tree and wasn't really into bonsai anymore. Only bud pinching the tree in spring to keep it small. I imagine some of the needles on there are 14 years old. So spring 2020 I got back into the hobby.

Here's the progress so far, good or bad is what is. Did a little more pruning and wiring after the photo. Figured a few members were interested in this.


View attachment 399995
Id love an update on this tree :)
 
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