I just saw this on my BRT - fungus, mildew? What I need to do?

[Forsoothe!]

A solution of ~15% household bleach in water sprayed on trunk will kill mildew, if it's mildew. Try to keep it off the leaves which are thin and sensitive to everything. Keep the one with the virus away from the other one. Remember that virus' are not curable and will contaminate the soil and anything nearby splashed from overhead watering or rain. It is probable that if it is a virus, it is specific to few other species, but can be harbored without damaging carriers. It would be wisest not to use that ground for a year or so after the infected one is gone. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...

 

[janaiya]

what are you saying is that if it is a virus it is coming from the ground/soil? Even if the whole bonsai pot (not plastic) is in the soil and the soil is not covering the tree at all? Underneath the tree are 2 layers of big stones we had in the front yard. Those are touching the underneath of the pot where water comes out from watering. The same stones are surrounding the pot as well. So the tree is not in touch of any ground soil at all. Just to make it better to understand how the tree is ankered in the soil. We did that to prevent theft. I know it sounds weird, but its a gorgeous Bonsai tree and its huge.

 

[Forsoothe!]

I have no idea where the virus came from, or how you got it. They spread by multiplying in the host and spilling out of the breathing pores in the bottom surface of leaves, especially carried by water from hither to yon. If they can't find a host in some time certain, they die. Some hosts can act as carriers and not show any signs of infection. As long as your tree is alive and has the virus, the virus will multiple. If it doesn't have the virus, everything I have said is moot.

 

[MHBonsai]

Rain water can splash all kinds of stuff from the ground into the soil of your tree. Another reason pots are typically elevated is to keep them away from ground contaminates like fungus and bacterial infections.

Have you all been able to look at the hole that the tree sits in while it is raining? Does it fill up like a bathtub?

 

[Forsoothe!]

To say nothing of critters and my favorites: ants.

 

[Forsoothe!]

While I'm at it, I don't remember mildew forming on non-green parts of plants. Of course, it might be because of my superior skills that I haven't seen it in a long time. If memory serves me, it is soft and can be rubbed off. Are we calling this mildew just because it's white? Mildew has a smell that housewives can instantly zoom in on. Stick your nose in there and confirm it. It may be calcium deposits? Florida is limestone city and the rocks nearby may contribute here, and well water might be the culprit. If so. try to clean off a small section with a ~15% solution of vinegar in water on a cotton swab to confirm calcium.

 

[janaiya]

Rain water can splash all kinds of stuff from the ground into the soil of your tree. Another reason pots are typically elevated is to keep them away from ground contaminates like fungus and bacterial infections.

Have you all been able to look at the hole that the tree sits in while it is raining? Does it fill up like a bathtub?

that I can't tell since the tree is in the soil. When we pulled it out 2 weeks ago the water drained out of both holes. Now we did not have a bathtub underneath (kidding)

 

[janaiya]

While I'm at it, I don't remember mildew forming on non-green parts of plants. Of course, it might be because of my superior skills that I haven't seen it in a long time. If memory serves me, it is soft and can be rubbed off. Are we calling this mildew just because it's white? Mildew has a smell that housewives can instantly zoom in on. Stick your nose in there and confirm it. It may be calcium deposits? Florida is limestone city and the rocks nearby may contribute here, and well water might be the culprit. If so. try to clean off a small section with a ~15% solution of vinegar in water on a cotton swab to confirm calcium.

The spots on the trunk I don't think it is mildew, I don't smell anything and I tried to scratch it with my nail and it came little off, but I had to scratch harder to do it. So the spots are hard and not to rub away. I will try with apple cider vinegar mixed in water as you said and see what happens.
Meanwhile I sent pictures to a diagnostic lab MSU in MI and they replied already today. That's so cool. They saw the yellow leaves with green veins in the first pic and said the tree is chlorotic (nutrient deficient), due to a lack of Chlorophyll. I googled chlorosis and thats what it says:

"Chlorosis is a yellowing of normally green leaves due to a lack of chlorophyll. Many factors, singly or in combination, contribute to chlorosis. In northern Illinois, some of the most common causes among trees and shrubs include nutrient deficiencies related to soil alkalinity (high pH), drought, poor drainage, and compaction of the soil. Chlorotic plants may only show symptoms on one or two branches, or the whole plant may be affected. ( half of my tree has those pale green yellow leaves, the back part is green)
The first indication of chlorosis is a paling of the green color of the foliage, followed later in the season by a general yellowing. In mild cases, the leaf tissue is pale green, but leaf veins remain green. In moderate cases, the tissue between leaf veins is bright yellow. In advanced cases, leaf size is stunted and the leaf tissue is pale white to pale yellow. The leaf margins may become scorched or develop brown, angular spots between the veins, and the leaves may wither and drop prematurely. "
It says to use nitrogen and sulfate fertilizer for the soil, the only thing is it acts slow.

Common Causes:
Availability of plant nutrients from the soil varies with soil pH. Most urban soils in northern Illinois are alkaline, especially the disturbed soils of neighborhoods developed since the late 1940s. The soil’s pH is an indicator of soil acidity or alkalinity (on a scale of 1-14, 7.0 is neutral, below 7.0 the pH is acidic, above 7.0 the pH is alkaline). If you do not know the pH of your soil, consider having a soil test done.
A common cause of chlorosis is a deficiency of iron or manganese, both of which are present but unavailable in high pH soils (pH>7.2). (my trees soil is PH 8 with a scale from 1 to 8 see picture below) Iron and manganese are needed by plants to form chlorophyll and to complete photosynthesis. With most plants, the micronutrients iron, manganese, copper, and zinc are most available when the pH is between 5.0 and 6.5; a soil pH range between 6.0 and 6.5 is considered optimal for nutrient availability. Excesses of potassium, magnesium, and phosphorous also contribute to chlorosis. When present in excess, these elements cause some trees, particularly oaks and maples, to take up inadequate amounts of the micronutrients iron and manganese. If iron or manganese deficiency is suspected, there are both long-term and short-term treatment strategies, but a soil test will determine the pH as well as the availability of nutrients that cause chlorosis. Stressors, such as temperature extremes, drought, poor drainage (which limits soil aeration) or restricted root growth, further limit nutrient uptake in plants sensitive to chlorosis ."

Now regarding the variegated leaves they think it may be a genetic abnormality, possibly Chimera and it is difficult to find much information regarding this genetic abnormality. However they are consulting with some specialists and will let me know. They also sent me labs to consult in Florida since they might have more info regarding tropical trees.

Thats what I got for now.
And here is what my meter says at the moment, its midnight, regarding moist/dry conditions of the soil measured at the outer board of the pot where most of the roots might sit. And it rained yesterday most part of the day. But again it gets only a part of the rain since half is covered be ceiling.
The 2nd pic shows PH level and its definitely too alkaline.

Any opinions to all these updates? So the moisture level indicates that it needs water in the morning, or what you guys think? Can't trust the meter?

moisture level


PH level

 

[Forsoothe!]

Your meter shows ~7.8 pH. That's probably typical for your area. 6.5 to 7 would be better, but that may be a bridge too far for you. The further south you get, the more the influence of Florida's limestone base. Google Chlorotic leaf to see what green veins look like, -not like what you have in your original photos. I don't want to argue interpretation of facts with professional labs, but it's not a chimera which is a long discussion not worth having here. Give the tree 1/2 day sun, on a bench, away from other plants,feed with Miracid which will take care of any deficiencies, let it go through normal wet, dry, wet, dry cycles and watch what happens. A virus will increase over time, good health will show over time.

 

[Carol 83]

If it has Chlorosis, a couple applications of Miracid should clear that up. Oops, @Forsoothe! beat me to it.

 

[Forsoothe!]

If it has Chlorosis, a couple applications of Miracid should clear that up. Oops, @Forsoothe! beat me to it.

Great minds think alike...

 

[AJL]

What is the botanical name for
BRT???

 

[LanceMac10]

 

[0soyoung]

Sprinkle a little iron sulfate on the soil. Ironite greener is one brand you might find in your local garden centers and/or big box stores. If you get purer iron sulfate you can spray a dilute solution on the leaves for an immediate response

What is the botanical name for
BRT???

GOOGLE

 

[Forsoothe!]

What is the botanical name for
BRT???

The modern name for Brazilian Raintree – Chloroleucon Tortum (unless we're talking about the British Racing Team)

 

[LanceMac10]

Use the diluted Hydrogen Peroxide suggested by @0soyoung, spray the "woody" branches and trunk. I'd avoid the leaves as they are fairly delicate and it might de-foliate on it's own.
Mildew like you get in a damp basement with poor air flow. I don't think the tree "has it" in as much as it's surface mildew. Indicative of a moisture problem, in my opinion.
The area you have it sited is a poor option, to me. Too much dampness and most likely poor air movement with inadequate sun exposure.
Note the remarks regarding chlorosis, i.e. soil compaction and poor aeration. PH levels are the least of your concerns here, focus on siting and better timed watering. Ditch the meter.



Chimera? Greek mythology is cool and who doesn't like a good genetic mutation? But that's not what is happening here, waterlogged roots are the most likely culprit.
BRT's are pretty disease/fungal proof, might get 1-2 scale insects in a blue moon...I mean virtually bulletproof......but any containerized tree can suffer/die from waterlogged roots....




Again, trying to help. Up here, this tree would probably command $1500-$2500 from a bonsai nursery. I'm sure you paid a pretty penny...…..


…….but putting "security" before "health" is bad Spanglish in my book...……....or Fraunch, Jerkman or my favorite, Trailermerican!!!!


get that thing off the ground and proudly displayed or I'm gonna' wig-out!!!!

 

[LanceMac10]

The modern name for Brazilian Raintree – Chloroleucon Tortum (unless we're talking about the British Racing Team)

…..wait until the next round of research funding reviews come down, they'll change it.....AGAIN......

 

[petegreg]

…..wait until the next round of research funding reviews come down, they'll change it.....AGAIN......

Older name now listed as a synonym was Pithecellobium tortum.

Nomes Populares: Tataré, jacaré, jurema, angico-branco, vinhático-de-espinho.

 

[janaiya]

Use the diluted Hydrogen Peroxide suggested by @0soyoung, spray the "woody" branches and trunk. I'd avoid the leaves as they are fairly delicate and it might de-foliate on it's own.
Mildew like you get in a damp basement with poor air flow. I don't think the tree "has it" in as much as it's surface mildew. Indicative of a moisture problem, in my opinion.
The area you have it sited is a poor option, to me. Too much dampness and most likely poor air movement with inadequate sun exposure.
Note the remarks regarding chlorosis, i.e. soil compaction and poor aeration. PH levels are the least of your concerns here, focus on siting and better timed watering. Ditch the meter.



Chimera? Greek mythology is cool and who doesn't like a good genetic mutation? But that's not what is happening here, waterlogged roots are the most likely culprit.
BRT's are pretty disease/fungal proof, might get 1-2 scale insects in a blue moon...I mean virtually bulletproof......but any containerized tree can suffer/die from waterlogged roots....




Again, trying to help. Up here, this tree would probably command $1500-$2500 from a bonsai nursery. I'm sure you paid a pretty penny...…..


…….but putting "security" before "health" is bad Spanglish in my book...……....or Fraunch, Jerkman or my favorite, Trailermerican!!!!


get that thing off the ground and proudly displayed or I'm gonna' wig-out!!!!

You always put a smile on my face . You have common sense just as I do, unfortunately my son does not share the same thinking. And I am not up to create a family drama about "HIS BRT !" At the end he bought it and he decides. I am just really sad that I can't find yet a way to make both happy. Trust me I am quite a fighter to get my point to his brain. And a good manipulator as well. I am just hoping this beauty makes it to the spring so I can take a look at the roots and than go from there. Can't I just change the soil without compromising the roots too much and put new soil in right now or is this a NO NO ? I have to wait for the spring? Maybe that's all he needs since we might have compromised his health due to the pot inside the soil?

The location of the BRT is definitely not 100% but he gets about 6 to 7 hrs full sun when its not cloudy and when it rains he gets all wet, maybe not the same quantity of rain in the back part. I think thats a good amount of sun, or not? I will use my finger again and ditch the meter. The soil is in my opinion very compact because its quite tough to get the meter in each time figure my finger. Tomorrow morning I will try ACV diluted in water on 1 spot on the trunk to see the response. This morning I took off the the most infected leaves just in case. The tree is dry and guys, he dries out fast and its not even hot climate atm. Where does the water goes? Stuck on the roots? I should feel it with my finger? I am really getting confused now.

 

[AJL]

Older name now listed as a synonym was Pithecellobium tortum.

Nomes Populares: Tataré, jacaré, jurema, angico-branco, vinhático-de-espinho.

Thankyou for giving the name- its not a species we grow widely over here in Britain!!
I looked Pithecellobium tortum up on wikipedia and a photo on there shows similar bleached leaves on a young seedling
As its a Leguminous species could it be suffering loss of the nitrogen-fixing nodules on its roots after a recent transplanting or root pruning /repotting?
Also the deposit on the stems looks similar to salt or calcium deposits- do you have hard water? Maybe watering with rainwater could help?
Viruses can often be spread by sap sucking insects