walter pall post/article

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I pretty much follow this to the letter. I'm using 95% diatomite and 5% pine bark. The bark just makes me feel better.
 
Sadly, my weather and watering restrictions would not permit same practice. Even for me, lots of good info still to be gathered from it though.
 
Sadly, my weather and watering restrictions would not permit same practice. Even for me, lots of good info still to be gathered from it though.

Agreed on the info, and I too lack the set up or time to follow the method very formally. I observed it the first time at Schley's bonsai in FL. He grows about everything in lava rock, granite, and haydite. Looks dry as hell even after he's FINISHED watering, but everything grows fast and healthy. With that said he may water 5 times a day in summer (for all I know, not sure how often watering occurs)

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I do pretty much just as the article says to do. But I have one addition which I consider major. I wick all my pots. For wicks I use a twisted mop strand about 6-8 inches long. You can get them cotton mop heads but I believe synthetic ones work better. I place it in the bottom of the pot with the ends hanging down 2 or 3 inches out of the drainage holes. This draws the water out of the bottom of the pot so there is no stagnation. As the article says, it is virtually impossible to over water. As the water is drawn out, air is drawn in keeping the soil oxygenated to the bottom of the pot, which is necessary for the health of the tree.

To give credit where credit is due, I learned this technique from Dean Bull, who has used it successfully for years as curator of the collection at Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids MI.
 
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I do pretty much just as the article says to do. But I have one addition which I consider major. I wick all my pots. For wicks I use a twisted mop strand about 6-8 inches long. You can get them cotton mop heads but I believe synthetic ones work better. I place it in the bottom of the pot with the ends hanging down 2 or 3 inches out of the drainage holes. This draws the water out of the bottom of the pot so there is no stagnation. As the article says, it is virtually impossible to over water. As the water is drawn out, air is drawn in keeping the soil oxygenated to the bottom of the pot, which is necessary for the health of the tree.

To give credit where credit is due, I learned this technique from Dean Bull, who has used it successfully for years as curator of the collection at Meijer Gardens collection in Grand Rapids MI.

Do you use organics? Reason I ask Is I do not seem to have a need for wicking to date but as I am starting over at the new house it may/might be useful.

Grimmy
 
Walter has a few great youtube videos up on exactly these subjects, since of course they're all inter related. I imagine they're probably pretty close to the article but definitely worth the watch. I honestly feel walter explained these subjects in such a clear way, when I was trying to wrap my head around the daunting subject of soils etc., he really made it clear for me.

Here's the videos:

Substrate part I
Substrates part II

Feeding part I
Feeding part II
 
Do you use organics? Reason I ask Is I do not seem to have a need for wicking to date but as I am starting over at the new house it may/might be useful.

Grimmy

Yes I do. I have used pine bark and sphagnum and composted horse manure (which includes a lot of straw and occasionally wood chips) at different times. It does not seem to make much difference as far as the health of my trees is concerned which I used.
 
I too have to add some organics due to always being in hot climates. In the summer months in Ohio we get from July to sept with temps near 100 degrees each day and long windy days, then in Florida in the winter months its always near 80 degrees and windy too. I use composted pine bark in my mix to keep it from being dry when I get home that evening from a long days work. I also feed my plants weekly with liquid fertilizer double the recommended dose plus throw the pellet fertilzer slow release stuff on the surface probably more fertilzation than WP talks about, I have come to realize what the tree does not use just washes away and as WP said trees need nitrogen to grow and stay healthy.

ed
 
I too have to add some organics due to always being in hot climates. In the summer months in Ohio we get from July to sept with temps near 100 degrees each day and long windy days, then in Florida in the winter months its always near 80 degrees and windy too. I use composted pine bark in my mix to keep it from being dry when I get home that evening from a long days work. I also feed my plants weekly with liquid fertilizer double the recommended dose plus throw the pellet fertilzer slow release stuff on the surface probably more fertilzation than WP talks about, I have come to realize what the tree does not use just washes away and as WP said trees need nitrogen to grow and stay healthy.

ed

Sounds pretty close to what I do. Somebody once told me that your soil and trees better not dry out any faster than a long workday in summer, assuming no auto water, telecommuting, or you're in the nursery business. If that means you can only water every 3rd day in fall at least you have something to water.
 
Walters methods work well for us. We do not do exactly what he does as far as materials but the materials we use offer the same effect and are based on availability. What I find of most interest is the CONSISTANT use of the same items for everything. It really helps to make this "road" a lot more realistic. I equate the philosophy to Albert Einstein who always wore the same type of clothes to keep life "simple". The less complicated we make this "journey" allows us to enjoy it more rather then "chase" it.

Grimmy
 
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